Thanks... I'll reach out them and another company that did my brother-in-law's trees. I went over to his house to check out his saw pole and even at full length and a ladder it would be a challenge.
Keep your stick on the ice...
Is there someone on here who considers themselves experienced with AV electronics questions? I have a TV/Soundbar issue and would appreciate it if you could take a few moments to chat and help with a couple questions I have. Thank you!
Is there someone on here who considers themselves experienced with AV electronics questions? I have a TV/Soundbar issue and would appreciate it if you could take a few moments to chat and help with a couple questions I have. Thank you!
I'm reasonably good with that kind of thing. Out of town at the moment, but happy to help.
B1G refs... corrupt, or just incompetent?
Does anyone know of a Vintage MN Hockey equivalent for MN Football Jerseys?
The Gopher website only sells 1 Football jerseys and you cannot customise them. My Great grandfather played for the Gophers and wore 91. Would love to get that sweater.
'29, '40, '74, '76, '79, '02, & '03
GPL's Resident Cabin Enthusiast & Cadets Hockey Fan
To each their own but I’m trying to wrap my head around having a $1000/month car payment.
p.s. Not looking for political debate/comments.
$1000? Wonder what terms they are for like how long and what rate?
My head just hurts thinking of a $1,000 a month payment.
Keep your stick on the ice...
$1000? Wonder what terms they are for like how long and what rate?
When I bought my Dodge Journey I had full intention of paying it all in cash at the dealership. It was late in the afternoon and by time it was time to pay I couldn’t transfer money out of my investments. So I just financed it, so I could drive it off the lot and made 3 large payments on it.
Keep your stick on the ice...
Holy cripes. The last car payment my wife or I had was about 20 years ago, and IIRC it was around $300 a month. We are fortunate that the last 3 vehicles we have purchased we have paid cash for. In fact her work vehicle is 2k short of 300k. We bought her a new vehicle as a backup for that one in 2019, thinking it was on its last leg back then. My work pickup is closing in on 250k and I bought a backup for that one this year. I hope we only have 1 more vehicle purchase in our future. I could not imagine paying 1k for a car payment and another 1k or so for a housing.
I'm 50% factual and 50% sarcastic. When you get to know me, you will know which is which.
I've mentioned it before, but my Journey is pushing 180,000 and I have the MaxCare plan via Dodge on it. My plan is to drive it and keep using that MaxCare plan until Dodge pays me out or the Journey undriveable and to costly outside the MaxCare plan.
Keep your stick on the ice...
That is cool. When we purchased the wife's older vehicle, we bought the life time old change for $200. Needless to say, she has gotten her moneys worth out of that and I bet the dealership will be happy when that vehicle finally dies.
I'm 50% factual and 50% sarcastic. When you get to know me, you will know which is which.
In my case, the dealerships don't care. The service reps. and mechanics tell me all the time that I have a great deal and not to give up on it until I have to. It's Dodge and MaxCare that's not a fan of me... LoL!!!
Keep your stick on the ice...
To each their own but I’m trying to wrap my head around having a $1000/month car payment.
p.s. Not looking for political debate/comments.
We purchased a new car a year ago. We financed 100% of it on a 0% interest deal. Our payment is over $1,000 as a result.
I'm dreading what the interest rate on ours will be when our new car arrives. That said our payment won't be $1000.
I have a ‘21 wrangler. Google it, it ain’t cheap. I have what I would consider a hefty payment and it’s nowhere near $1000 and will take me 6 years to pay off. That said my interest rate is like 1.87%
People with that kind of payment must not have other massive loans and live in their parent’s basement.
Or as mentioned above, cannot put anything down.
I would imagine the bigger part is the exorbitant prices of cars since supply chain woes
That or now that kids are going back to school in person, the new soccer moms need to get that shiny loaded Escalade to keep up with the other Karens.
When you think of the factors, expensive car, nothing or little down, 3%-4% rate (or higher), and a short term, it's easy to get over $1K in payments. Wouldn't want it but it's easy to get there and even at a lower rate if you finance at a shorter term I can see the logic since you'd pay less in the long term, assuming you have the cash flow to cover it.
“When your best friend is the son of God, you get tired of losing every argument.”
― Christopher Moore, Lamb: The Gospel According to Biff, Christ's Childhood Pal
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I can't remember where I saw it, but I read somewhere recently that every new car is a "luxury" car these days. Even some Kia's are >$40k.
We chose to put nothing down and take a full loan because of the 0% financing deal. The whole "free money" idea. We purchased a SUV, so that purchase paid back over a limited time is why our payment was so high. We wouldn't have had to but 0% interest that lets me keep my money in the bank sounds good.
As long as there isn't a ridiculous loan origination charge or something like that, the 0% deals do make it easy.
B1G refs... corrupt, or just incompetent?
I don't have a large monthly cash flow, and my last vehicle purchase (2017), due to what I put down, the monthly payment was about $205, 6 yrs. Paid it off in less than 5. I had no other loan show up on the books, since the only other loan I had taken out was in 2001.
When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the United States you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.
Does anyone have a therapist they recommend or know how I can find one? I've never done this. You can DM if you would prefer.
Does anyone have a therapist they recommend or know how I can find one? I've never done this. You can DM if you would prefer.
There are a couple of major "chains" for therapy - Nystrom and Associates and Lifestance Health. You can choose specialties and maybe even see what each therapist specializes in on their web page. But it's kind of one of those things that you may not know if they are a perfect fit until you start to have a few appointments.
I'm not saying those are the only places to go but those two will give you lots of options/locations. I think they both offer telehealth too so you can do your appointments from home if you prefer.
I have a tax question, and didn't want to start a new thread so I thought I would try here.
I officiated in 3 states this calendar year, and made over the minimum for filing taxes in each of those states (for gross income anyway, once it hits net I am well below the cut offs). I have always filed my own taxes, but due to an unique circumstance this year, I hired someone to help me file. My tax preparer is telling me I need to file in all 3 states (and charging more due to the additional paperwork). Why is this?
When I officiated for the NAHL, USHL, CHL, I never filed in each state I worked in... That would've been painful filing in 10+ states some seasons. I only filed for the state I was living in at the time. I was never an employee, always an independent contractor. So my 1099s never had a state tax ID, or any tax info on it as taxes weren't withdrawn from my payments. The 1099s are originating from states I haven't worked in due to the methods in which we are being paid.
When I worked for Lifetime Fitness and travelled to Colorado, Texas, New York, Georgia, etc for work, I never filed taxes in those states. I "earned" well over the minimum for filing taxes while I was in those states for multiple days each visit, and multiple times per year. Lifetime never withheld state taxes in any other states, all my income had Minnesota tax withheld from it.
Can someone point me in the right direction as to how to handle this? I always filed using Turbo Tax before, was I doing it wrong the entire time?
He is also telling me I cannot deduct my mileage as I am just commuting... I am driving over 200 miles one way, that isn't a "normal commute" He is telling me since my home is technically my office for this "job" then my first and last trip of the day are commuting.
I am thinking of just going back to TurboTax and playing dumb. And if the IRS wants to come after me for a couple hundred bucks, so be it.
(PLEASE nobody make this political, while I do care about what should and should not be, I don't want to discuss it on here)
I have a tax question, and didn't want to start a new thread so I thought I would try here.
I officiated in 3 states this calendar year, and made over the minimum for filing taxes in each of those states (for gross income anyway, once it hits net I am well below the cut offs). I have always filed my own taxes, but due to an unique circumstance this year, I hired someone to help me file. My tax preparer is telling me I need to file in all 3 states (and charging more due to the additional paperwork). Why is this?
When I officiated for the NAHL, USHL, CHL, I never filed in each state I worked in... That would've been painful filing in 10+ states some seasons. I only filed for the state I was living in at the time. I was never an employee, always an independent contractor. So my 1099s never had a state tax ID, or any tax info on it as taxes weren't withdrawn from my payments. The 1099s are originating from states I haven't worked in due to the methods in which we are being paid.
When I worked for Lifetime Fitness and travelled to Colorado, Texas, New York, Georgia, etc for work, I never filed taxes in those states. I "earned" well over the minimum for filing taxes while I was in those states for multiple days each visit, and multiple times per year. Lifetime never withheld state taxes in any other states, all my income had Minnesota tax withheld from it.
Can someone point me in the right direction as to how to handle this? I always filed using Turbo Tax before, was I doing it wrong the entire time?
He is also telling me I cannot deduct my mileage as I am just commuting... I am driving over 200 miles one way, that isn't a "normal commute" He is telling me since my home is technically my office for this "job" then my first and last trip of the day are commuting.
I am thinking of just going back to TurboTax and playing dumb. And if the IRS wants to come after me for a couple hundred bucks, so be it.
(PLEASE nobody make this political, while I do care about what should and should not be, I don't want to discuss it on here)
Unfortunately I don't have the answer to your question, but I can say not all tax preparers are created equal. Our previous preparer retired and we switched to someone new and within 2 years they made an error. Have switched since then to a new firm and they are much better.
What I'm getting at is maybe try to get a 2nd (professional) opinion?
I've got a signed Brock Faber jersey I want to frame so I can hang it in my office. Does anyone have recommendations for where to get such a thing done? I'd prefer not to have to ship it off anywhere.
Check Hobby Lobby or Micheal’s
Keep your stick on the ice...
I have a tax question, and didn't want to start a new thread so I thought I would try here.
I officiated in 3 states this calendar year, and made over the minimum for filing taxes in each of those states (for gross income anyway, once it hits net I am well below the cut offs). I have always filed my own taxes, but due to an unique circumstance this year, I hired someone to help me file. My tax preparer is telling me I need to file in all 3 states (and charging more due to the additional paperwork). Why is this?
When I officiated for the NAHL, USHL, CHL, I never filed in each state I worked in... That would've been painful filing in 10+ states some seasons. I only filed for the state I was living in at the time. I was never an employee, always an independent contractor. So my 1099s never had a state tax ID, or any tax info on it as taxes weren't withdrawn from my payments. The 1099s are originating from states I haven't worked in due to the methods in which we are being paid.
When I worked for Lifetime Fitness and travelled to Colorado, Texas, New York, Georgia, etc for work, I never filed taxes in those states. I "earned" well over the minimum for filing taxes while I was in those states for multiple days each visit, and multiple times per year. Lifetime never withheld state taxes in any other states, all my income had Minnesota tax withheld from it.
Can someone point me in the right direction as to how to handle this? I always filed using Turbo Tax before, was I doing it wrong the entire time?
He is also telling me I cannot deduct my mileage as I am just commuting... I am driving over 200 miles one way, that isn't a "normal commute" He is telling me since my home is technically my office for this "job" then my first and last trip of the day are commuting.
I am thinking of just going back to TurboTax and playing dumb. And if the IRS wants to come after me for a couple hundred bucks, so be it.
(PLEASE nobody make this political, while I do care about what should and should not be, I don't want to discuss it on here)
I am curious as to how this worked out. I’ve heard many times that professional athletes have to pay taxes according to the states they play in. For instance if you’re a Wild player you would pay taxes for 41 games in MN, plus X games in IL, plus Y games in CA, etc.
I am not sure how that’s different than when I travel for work. But for some reason it is.
I've got a signed Brock Faber jersey I want to frame so I can hang it in my office. Does anyone have recommendations for where to get such a thing done? I'd prefer not to have to ship it off anywhere.
I second Michael's. This week. Don't wait. Usually 70-80% off. They're very expensive but they do a tremendous job. Every large frame job I've had done by them looks excellent.
I've got a signed Brock Faber jersey I want to frame so I can hang it in my office. Does anyone have recommendations for where to get such a thing done? I'd prefer not to have to ship it off anywhere.
I second Michael's. This week. Don't wait. Usually 70-80% off. They're very expensive but they do a tremendous job. Every large frame job I've had done by them looks excellent.
Back in the day, Deck the Walls at the MOA were the best. I had them do everything and they were always top notch and beyond reasonable price wise.
Keep your stick on the ice...
I had a very large format photo framed at Mitrebox Framing in the North Loop and they did an excellent job (and as a photographer I am picky). I don't know how much experience they have doing jerseys, but they were very professional and knowledgeable.
I have a tax question, and didn't want to start a new thread so I thought I would try here.
I officiated in 3 states this calendar year, and made over the minimum for filing taxes in each of those states (for gross income anyway, once it hits net I am well below the cut offs). I have always filed my own taxes, but due to an unique circumstance this year, I hired someone to help me file. My tax preparer is telling me I need to file in all 3 states (and charging more due to the additional paperwork). Why is this?
When I officiated for the NAHL, USHL, CHL, I never filed in each state I worked in... That would've been painful filing in 10+ states some seasons. I only filed for the state I was living in at the time. I was never an employee, always an independent contractor. So my 1099s never had a state tax ID, or any tax info on it as taxes weren't withdrawn from my payments. The 1099s are originating from states I haven't worked in due to the methods in which we are being paid.
When I worked for Lifetime Fitness and travelled to Colorado, Texas, New York, Georgia, etc for work, I never filed taxes in those states. I "earned" well over the minimum for filing taxes while I was in those states for multiple days each visit, and multiple times per year. Lifetime never withheld state taxes in any other states, all my income had Minnesota tax withheld from it.
Can someone point me in the right direction as to how to handle this? I always filed using Turbo Tax before, was I doing it wrong the entire time?
He is also telling me I cannot deduct my mileage as I am just commuting... I am driving over 200 miles one way, that isn't a "normal commute" He is telling me since my home is technically my office for this "job" then my first and last trip of the day are commuting.
I am thinking of just going back to TurboTax and playing dumb. And if the IRS wants to come after me for a couple hundred bucks, so be it.
(PLEASE nobody make this political, while I do care about what should and should not be, I don't want to discuss it on here)
I am curious as to how this worked out. I’ve heard many times that professional athletes have to pay taxes according to the states they play in. For instance if you’re a Wild player you would pay taxes for 41 games in MN, plus X games in IL, plus Y games in CA, etc.
I am not sure how that’s different than when I travel for work. But for some reason it is.
Well, I haven't been audited... haha. I went back to TurboTax did it myself, and filed as if I only worked in MN. When I did the paperwork, I owed $67 in state taxes to Wisconsin and even less to Michigan. It was going to cost me more than I owed just to get the software and file in those states. So I didn't. If they want to come after me for that small amount of money, I guess I will pay up then. But for now, I paid MN State income tax for money made in WI and MI.
I don't play any other games with taxes, like the home office deduction, excessive write-offs, or anything like that. So I am hoping my chances of an audit are really low. My tax guy started charging per form (so getting multiple 1099s was an issue), and insisted I file in multiple states since I earned the money there. I get it, he has a license and needs to be by the book. I just think it is ridiculous to send in a whole bunch of forms for such a small amount of money and spend even more than if I had made all the money in MN.
If reffing went back to just handing the refs cash I’d maybe consider doing it again ?.
If reffing went back to just handing the refs cash I’d maybe consider doing it again ?.
God those days were amazing. Especially during tournaments. I just had envelopes of cash stacked in my room. You could make well north of $500 a weekend... back in 2000. In cash.
If reffing went back to just handing the refs cash I’d maybe consider doing it again ?.
God those days were amazing. Especially during tournaments. I just had envelopes of cash stacked in my room. You could make well north of $500 a weekend... back in 2000. In cash.
I worked a warming house as a side gig back in those days, and reffed some broomball games, yep, cash on the side.
When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the United States you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.
Scrimmages still pay cash. I did a bunch in October and it was great. I'll take a scrimmage over a league game any day.
Tournaments are good too because the pay is usually slightly more, and most of them give you a check before or after the last game you work.
District games pay less AND you have to wait to get paid (sometimes a month or more). Plus, that income is reported, so the gov't knows about it.
We (wife's vehicle) drive a 2023 Chrysler Pacifica. It's a Hybrid. We have never charged it since we bought it in August... lol!!! Black Friday we were out running errands and the parking was full, even the handicap spots for our daughter. Though over half the EV spots were empty. So why not charge it... lol!!! Though the charging station was a CCS - Type 1 station and the Pacifica has a Type 1 - J1772.
My question for any EV owners out there...
1) What's the most popular charging station? Cause I know I need an adaptor to put on the CCS to charge the J1772.
2) Or what would be my best options... not buying any adaptor and taking the chance of finding a J1772 station. Or buy an adaptor for the most popular charging station.
I'm not a big fan of EV's, though we got a good deal on the Pacifica. And I can budge at bit, with a Hybrid.
Keep your stick on the ice...
Looking for any recommendations…
Last year 2/3’s of my garage I insulated, put up sheetrock and OSB over. This winter I want to tackle the last 1/3. It’s the side wall and a 1/3 of the back wall. The two wall are sheetrock but not insulated. I’m thinking of putting OSB over and hiring someone spray in insulation.
So anyone have any references or recommendations for a sprayer?
So I compare tearing down the sheetrock, putting up insulation/sheetrock/OSB vs. putting up OSB over the sheet rock and spraying in the insulation
Keep your stick on the ice...
Looking for any recommendations…
Last year 2/3’s of my garage I insulated, put up sheetrock and OSB over. This winter I want to tackle the last 1/3. It’s the side wall and a 1/3 of the back wall. The two wall are sheetrock but not insulated. I’m thinking of putting OSB over and hiring someone spray in insulation.
So anyone have any references or recommendations for a sprayer?
So I compare tearing down the sheetrock, putting up insulation/sheetrock/OSB vs. putting up OSB over the sheet rock and spraying in the insulation
I know a guy, and can put you in touch with him. Dunno how it will all pan out, but at least it's a contact. DM me.
When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the United States you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.
Looking for any recommendations…
Last year 2/3’s of my garage I insulated, put up sheetrock and OSB over. This winter I want to tackle the last 1/3. It’s the side wall and a 1/3 of the back wall. The two wall are sheetrock but not insulated. I’m thinking of putting OSB over and hiring someone spray in insulation.
So anyone have any references or recommendations for a sprayer?
So I compare tearing down the sheetrock, putting up insulation/sheetrock/OSB vs. putting up OSB over the sheet rock and spraying in the insulation
I know a guy, and can put you in touch with him. Dunno how it will all pan out, but at least it's a contact. DM me.
Referred this post to my guy and his response:
Having the exposed insulation won't fly for code. Have to remove and then spray and re-cover with Sheetrock
When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the United States you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.
I’ll have to look into that to verify.
Keep your stick on the ice...
You may be talking about 2 different things...
Gator - Spray usually refers to "Spray Foam" insulation. And Rube is correct in that it cannot be exposed, it requires an ignition barrier. With spray foam you'd have no choice but to tear it down to the studs so they can spray it on, then gypsum wall board is your ignition barrier, and OSB can go over the top.
I think you mean "blown-in" insulation... Which usually refers to fiberglass, cellulose, or mineral wool.
Do you plan to heat this garage in the future? is it attached or detatched? Insulating the walls won't matter much if the roof is not insulated, what was done there? Because that significantly affects my response... If not heating it, I would just leave the gypsum wall board up, have someone cut some holes near the top of the stud cavities and blow-in mineral wool preferably, or cellulose. Then patch the small holes and then put OSB over the top.
If you do plan to heat it (more than just above freezing), we need to get into a discussion about dew-points, vapor mitigation, and other issues.
Frankly, I'm just offering someone to talk to. I've known him for years, that sorta thing
When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the United States you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.
I said spray insulation and I should have said injection insulation.
Keep your stick on the ice...
Thanks. The garage is attached. Any part of the walls that bordered the house was insulated (by code). Any parts of the walls that are not, were sheetrock or just open studs.
So yes, that is what I was getting at. Have someone drive holes, fill, cover up and I’ll cover with OSB.
Keep your stick on the ice...
Plus this is step by step project as I come up with the $$$. The next step would be to spray insulation in the back 1/3 of the rafters to what @the-rube was looking into. That there I’ll won’t cover with sheetrock. Cause I like using the open truss’s as storage.
Keep your stick on the ice...
Plus this is step by step project as I come up with the $$$. The next step would be to spray insulation in the back 1/3 of the rafters to what @the-rube was looking into. That there I’ll won’t cover with sheetrock. Cause I like using the open truss’s as storage.
You wouldn't be able to leave spray foam exposed technically. In a garage gets a little "iffy", but on the inside occupied space it is a no-no.
You can also void your roof warranty, just FYI. Insulating the underside of your roof sheathing can create a situation where your shingles heat up and the heat has nowhere to go (no more attic space with all that spray foam insulation) and your asphalt shingles could de-laminate from the heat. I have seen this happen on a commercial project.
There are now "cool-roof" designs with an airflow cavity to allow for this type of design. Just be careful. Your results may vary.
I’ve heard the negatives spraying and having your shingles getting hot. Just looking into options.
Keep your stick on the ice...
After getting 3 quotes, I think I'm to to blow the insulation myself. I'll just drill a 2" hole on top in the sheetrock and a hole on bottom for ventilation in each stack. And I'll buy enough insulation that I should get the blower for free rental at Menard's or Home Depot. Once I fill each stack, I'll just cover the sheetrock with OSB and I should be good.
Keep your stick on the ice...
After getting 3 quotes, I think I'm to to blow the insulation myself. I'll just drill a 2" hole on top in the sheetrock and a hole on bottom for ventilation in each stack. And I'll buy enough insulation that I should get the blower for free rental at Menard's or Home Depot. Once I fill each stack, I'll just cover the sheetrock with OSB and I should be good.
Sounds good. If it were me, I'd do mineral wool. It is superior in every way to fiberglass; better thermal value, non combustible, better sound deadening, and critters hate the stuff. Therma-Fiber Insul-Fill from Ownes corning is good stuff.
Also if it is attached, you'll likely want to continue the attic method that was used on the house. Which is probably insulation above the ceiling. That keeps you from having this awkward transition space going from cold attic above house, to warm attic in the garage. Or maybe you have a demising wall separating them that goes all the way to the roof sheathing.