Portal Forum General General Discussion Home Ownership

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  • #153763 Quote
    rowshkexrowshkex
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    What makes one not qualify/qualified for conventional loans?

    #153764 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @rowshkex wrote:

    What makes one not qualify/qualified for conventional loans?

    My situation, that I described, is one. Not having enough or any comparible properties.

    #153765 Quote
    BeaunerBeauner
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    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    @Maize wrote:

    @Beauner wrote:

    All this talk is making me really dread trying to buy my own house here in a few months (hopefully).

    It’s actually not that bad. It seems daunting at first, but if you find a good realtor that can take you through all the steps, it ended up being way easier than I expected.

    It isn’t that bad. It’s just bad when you can only qualify for certain loans and you ha e to jump through hoops. If you can do conventional, it is pretty cut and dry.

    As said above, find a good realtor who doesn’t just want to sell a house and isn’t lazy and you will get off on the right foot. Then find an experienced mortgage banker/broker, it’s easier at smaller, hometown type banks and they will take the time to explain everything to you. When I swore off Wells Fargo, I got a mortgage guy who had been doing it for 2 years. I knew more than he did about the process and was constantly calling him checking to ensure things were moving properly.

    Well the realtor part shouldn’t be too difficult because my sister started working part time for a realtor in her since she works 4/10 shifts. So she should be able to point me toward somebody I can trust.

    #153766 Quote
    MaizeMaize
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    @rowshkex wrote:

    What makes one not qualify/qualified for conventional loans?

    The number one reason for an FHA loan is bad credit. FHA loans can also help a little with lessening a down payment in exchange for a slightly higher monthly payment. Then third would be some weird stuff like the aforementioned that would be pretty rare.

    When you sit down for your pre-approval before you start looking for a house, your mortgage person should be able to show you a sheet of what your down payment and monthly payment would look like with either type of loan at a few different price points(usually what you’re asking for and then $10-15k in either direction of that)

    #153767 Quote
    rowshkexrowshkex
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    At what point is your credit good enough to get a good rate? Or are rates proportionally better with better credit all the way to the “best” score?

    #153768 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    @rowshkex wrote:

    At what point is your credit good enough to get a good rate? Or are rates proportionally better with better credit all the way to the “best” score?

    Here is a good article that explains it:
    http://www.bankrate.com/finance/mortgages/how-credit-scores-impact-your-mortgage-rate-1.aspx

    As for FHA, your credit score determines your payment. 580 and above, your payment is 3.5% of the loan. 500-579 and you are looking at a 10% payment….basically saying they don’t want you to have a mortgage.

    #153769 Quote
    dryflydryfly
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    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    @rowshkex wrote:

    At what point is your credit good enough to get a good rate? Or are rates proportionally better with better credit all the way to the “best” score?

    Here is a good article that explains it:
    http://www.bankrate.com/finance/mortgages/how-credit-scores-impact-your-mortgage-rate-1.aspx

    As for FHA, your credit score determines your payment. 580 and above, your payment is 3.5% of the loan. 500-579 and you are looking at a 10% payment….basically saying they don’t want you to have a mortgage.

    They are saying – rent longer, fix your credit. And with scores that low they would be right. Don’t think that pertains many here but is real. We my oldest sons story for awhile … Casualties of the financial crisis plus his wife had bad student loans from before they married. Took them three years to clean up but now have a home they can easily afford. House price less than 1.5 times their income …

    It can workout okay. Just need to be patient and understand the system. Not have terrible luck helps too.

    #153770 Quote
    AHABulldogAHABulldog
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    For those that were talking about getting PMI removed earlier… I had an appraisal done through Wells Fargo (have to go through a specific company for them) and our valuation came back today and we are able to remove PMI! Built the home a little over 3 years ago. With home prices being the way they are right now, it’s definitely a good time to get an appraisal to get that removed if you can. For us, the recent home sales in the area was basically enough to remove the PMI. Will be nice to have that money staying put every month.

    #153771 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
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    3 years? That’s incredible. Congratulations!

    #153772 Quote
    WPoSWPoS
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    with the recent sale of my mortgage to a questionable comapny, a refi has netted me: half a percent reduction in interest rate and a higher house value (guess it reduces the MI somewhat). Sadly, my 40×60 shop, 1/2 bath, insulated with a heated floor and attached leanto only counts as a 40×60 outbuilding with NO consideration of the insualtion, heating and 1/2 bath in it….what the BADger is up w/ that?

    AND they consider Oak Grove to be “suburban”….10 acre lots or farms?!??!!?

    W

    #153773 Quote
    MaizeMaize
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    @WPoS wrote:

    AND they consider Oak Grove to be “suburban”….10 acre lots or farms?!??!!?

    W

    I believe it goes by county, so anything in Hennepin, Ramsey, Dakota, Scott, Washington, Anoka, and Carver counts as metro area

    #153774 Quote
    HockeyBumHockeyBum
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    @HockeyBum wrote:

    Our PMI should be dropping off in the next month or two, as we’re getting really close to that 20% mark.

    We hit the magic number on our balance with the last mortgage payment, and received a confirmation letter from the bank today saying the PMI will be removed on our next payment. That will cut our mortgage payment by about a hundred dollars a month (at least for a year or two, until rising property taxes cancel out those savings).

    Speaking of which… my property taxes have gone up by 90% since 2003. I very much doubt my home’s value has increased that much in the same time period. I understand a few school levys have passed since then, but the amount we’re paying in property taxes on our house is insane.

    #153775 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    Our PMI should be dropping off in the next month or two, as we’re getting really close to that 20% mark.

    We hit the magic number on our balance with the last mortgage payment, and received a confirmation letter from the bank today saying the PMI will be removed on our next payment. That will cut our mortgage payment by about a hundred dollars a month (at least for a year or two, until rising property taxes cancel out those savings).

    Speaking of which… my property taxes have gone up by 90% since 2003. I very much doubt my home’s value has increased that much in the same time period. I understand a few school levys have passed since then, but the amount we’re paying in property taxes on our house is insane.

    Property taxes in MN are terrible.

    We’ve had property taxes on some farmland increase by up to 300% in a year before. Its a huge racket.

    #153776 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    #153777 Quote
    J22J22
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    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    Another reason? As in, you have multiple reasons to live there? Yeah, I’m not buying that one.

    #153778 Quote
    dryflydryfly
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    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    Our PMI should be dropping off in the next month or two, as we’re getting really close to that 20% mark.

    We hit the magic number on our balance with the last mortgage payment, and received a confirmation letter from the bank today saying the PMI will be removed on our next payment. That will cut our mortgage payment by about a hundred dollars a month (at least for a year or two, until rising property taxes cancel out those savings).

    Speaking of which… my property taxes have gone up by 90% since 2003. I very much doubt my home’s value has increased that much in the same time period. I understand a few school levys have passed since then, but the amount we’re paying in property taxes on our house is insane.

    Property taxes in MN are terrible.

    We’ve had property taxes on some farmland increase by up to 300% in a year before. Its a huge racket.

    Does your land have multiple use opportunity? Because I knew a guy up by Hastings who farmed on what was later to become a development. The county appraiser finally appraised his holdings with both possible uses in mind and his taxes skyrocketed. He sold the land just prior to the real estate bust for something like $25MM. I believe he bought it two decades earlier for less than $1MM… and for years was taxed well below its current valuation. It was painful though when the switch was made but given the sale he did ‘okay’ even after cap gains taxes.

    Other thing was they used to heavily subsidize farm land property taxes – legislature appropriation for counties to keep farm property taxes lower than they would be. Did that almost every year as land prices were going through the roof – then for a while they stopped. Part of one of the legislative logjams a few years ago. I remember because my accountant did work for a number of farmers in S Central Minnesota and they got huge increases one year. Not sure what they do now.

    The problem with farm land is the actual value of the land [what it would sell for] is a lot more than the typical income the land produces [profits from farming all told]. So if they tax based on its value [like most real estate is] it will be painful. If it was based on the income the land produced – that would be a lot easier for farmers to digest but quite volatile for counties as income goes up and down quite a lot. Also harder to assess and audit income. Appraisals are much easier.

    Still sucks I know.

    #153779 Quote
    dryflydryfly
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    @HockeyBum wrote:

    Speaking of which… my property taxes have gone up by 90% since 2003. I very much doubt my home’s value has increased that much in the same time period. I understand a few school levys have passed since then, but the amount we’re paying in property taxes on our house is insane.

    It very well might have gone up that much over that time even considering the price declines in the late 2000’s… If you live in a suburban or nicer urban area I would expect it has at least doubled since then. Over 13 years I would absolutely expect that much. Not everywhere but suburbs and nicer urban settings – absolutely. Where I live I know they have gone up nowhere near that much but I live in a smaller town outside the urban ring. Houses have still gone up about 200% over the last 30 years. My guess is maybe 50% since 2003 even with housing bust considered. So less but still more than one would expect for a blue collar neighborhood. Wages sure haven’t gone up that much around here.

    #153780 Quote
    HockeyBumHockeyBum
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    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    I’ve always wondered why someone living in the Red River Valley would choose to live on the Minnesota side of the border (Moorhead, EGF, etc…). Taxes are considerably more friendly in ND, are they not?

    #153781 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @dryfly wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    Our PMI should be dropping off in the next month or two, as we’re getting really close to that 20% mark.

    We hit the magic number on our balance with the last mortgage payment, and received a confirmation letter from the bank today saying the PMI will be removed on our next payment. That will cut our mortgage payment by about a hundred dollars a month (at least for a year or two, until rising property taxes cancel out those savings).

    Speaking of which… my property taxes have gone up by 90% since 2003. I very much doubt my home’s value has increased that much in the same time period. I understand a few school levys have passed since then, but the amount we’re paying in property taxes on our house is insane.

    Property taxes in MN are terrible.

    We’ve had property taxes on some farmland increase by up to 300% in a year before. Its a huge racket.

    Does your land have multiple use opportunity? Because I knew a guy up by Hastings who farmed on what was later to become a development. The county appraiser finally appraised his holdings with both possible uses in mind and his taxes skyrocketed. He sold the land just prior to the real estate bust for something like $25MM. I believe he bought it two decades earlier for less than $1MM… and for years was taxed well below its current valuation. It was painful though when the switch was made but given the sale he did ‘okay’ even after cap gains taxes.

    Other thing was they used to heavily subsidize farm land property taxes – legislature appropriation for counties to keep farm property taxes lower than they would be. Did that almost every year as land prices were going through the roof – then for a while they stopped. Part of one of the legislative logjams a few years ago. I remember because my accountant did work for a number of farmers in S Central Minnesota and they got huge increases one year. Not sure what they do now.

    The problem with farm land is the actual value of the land [what it would sell for] is a lot more than the typical income the land produces [profits from farming all told]. So if they tax based on its value [like most real estate is] it will be painful. If it was based on the income the land produced – that would be a lot easier for farmers to digest but quite volatile for counties as income goes up and down quite a lot. Also harder to assess and audit income. Appraisals are much easier.

    Still sucks I know.

    Not mixed use, at least it shouldn’t be. All of our land is at least 5-6 miles from any city development, and the land closest, about 5 miles from Red Wing, isn’t what saw the huge increases. The stuff that really skyrocketed, about 3 years ago, was about 15 miles from Red Wing, 12 from Cannon Falls. Really, middle of nowhere.

    #153782 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    I’ve always wondered why someone living in the Red River Valley would choose to live on the Minnesota side of the border (Moorhead, EGF, etc…). Taxes are considerably more friendly in ND, are they not?

    They are in western Wisconson too. My wife and I were considering moving to western WI, for several reasons, including being closer to family, and still being able to commute to the cities, but that went out the window when my wife took a job in the far western suburbs.

    #153783 Quote
    HockeyBumHockeyBum
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    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    I’ve always wondered why someone living in the Red River Valley would choose to live on the Minnesota side of the border (Moorhead, EGF, etc…). Taxes are considerably more friendly in ND, are they not?

    They are in western Wisconson too. My wife and I were considering moving to western WI, for several reasons, including being closer to family, and still being able to commute to the cities, but that went out the window when my wife took a job in the far western suburbs.

    I lived in Hudson about 10 years ago. Property taxes were significantly higher in Wisconsin than in Minnesota. At least they were at that time. Minnesota’s seem to be catching up quickly though.

    Here are the differences I found when I lived there:

    Property tax: Higher in WI.
    Gas tax: Higher in WI (I commuted to MN and filled my tank here, so this didn’t affect me).
    Insurance: Higher in MN.
    Sales Tax: Higher in MN.

    #153784 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    I’ve always wondered why someone living in the Red River Valley would choose to live on the Minnesota side of the border (Moorhead, EGF, etc…). Taxes are considerably more friendly in ND, are they not?

    They are in western Wisconson too. My wife and I were considering moving to western WI, for several reasons, including being closer to family, and still being able to commute to the cities, but that went out the window when my wife took a job in the far western suburbs.

    I lived in Hudson about 10 years ago. Property taxes were significantly higher in Wisconsin than in Minnesota. At least they were at that time. Minnesota’s seem to be catching up quickly though.

    Here are the differences I found when I lived there:

    Property tax: Higher in WI.
    Gas tax: Higher in WI (I commuted to MN and filled my tank here, so this didn’t affect me).
    Insurance: Higher in MN.
    Sales Tax: Higher in MN.

    The places we were looking in WI were lower than the places we were looking in MN…

    #153785 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    I’ve always wondered why someone living in the Red River Valley would choose to live on the Minnesota side of the border (Moorhead, EGF, etc…). Taxes are considerably more friendly in ND, are they not?

    Everything is cheaper. I pay about $75 per year for tabs on my new vehicle. Switching over my license cost me $8. I could go on and on. I grew up in EGF and thumbed my nose at ND…I am still a MN boy, but living in ND has some perks that outweigh, well, the ND thing. Fargo is considerably better than GF too.

    #153786 Quote
    kmdkmd
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    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    I’ve always wondered why someone living in the Red River Valley would choose to live on the Minnesota side of the border (Moorhead, EGF, etc…). Taxes are considerably more friendly in ND, are they not?

    Income tax is a lot less in ND vs MN, but there are other factors like housing/health care costs that offset it.

    http://www.bestplaces.net/cost-of-living/fargo-nd/moorhead-mn/42000

    They are also just fairly different places to live. Fargo is like Minneapolis (it has the big college, a downtown with all the arts/entertainment options, nice restaurants, attracts younger people, etc.), and Moorhead is like St Paul (predominantly quiet neighborhoods for families looking to settle down).

    #153787 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
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    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    Our PMI should be dropping off in the next month or two, as we’re getting really close to that 20% mark.

    We hit the magic number on our balance with the last mortgage payment, and received a confirmation letter from the bank today saying the PMI will be removed on our next payment. That will cut our mortgage payment by about a hundred dollars a month (at least for a year or two, until rising property taxes cancel out those savings).

    Speaking of which… my property taxes have gone up by 90% since 2003. I very much doubt my home’s value has increased that much in the same time period. I understand a few school levys have passed since then, but the amount we’re paying in property taxes on our house is insane.

    Property taxes aren’t dictated by the value of your home, they are dictated by how much money your local government needs to spend. That pool is then divvied out amongst the property owners based on property value.

    So if your government doubles spending next year your property tax may double despite a similar property value. And if your particular property increases in value relative to your neighbors (say you build and addition that increases the footprint) you’ll pay a larger portion of the pie.

    A lot of government spending is not noticed by most. Need a new fire truck? Did your city buy a bunch of property to reroute sewer lines? Legal settlement? New roads?

    #153788 Quote
    dryflydryfly
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    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    I’ve always wondered why someone living in the Red River Valley would choose to live on the Minnesota side of the border (Moorhead, EGF, etc…). Taxes are considerably more friendly in ND, are they not?

    They are in western Wisconson too. My wife and I were considering moving to western WI, for several reasons, including being closer to family, and still being able to commute to the cities, but that went out the window when my wife took a job in the far western suburbs.

    I lived in Hudson about 10 years ago. Property taxes were significantly higher in Wisconsin than in Minnesota. At least they were at that time. Minnesota’s seem to be catching up quickly though.

    Here are the differences I found when I lived there:

    Property tax: Higher in WI.
    Gas tax: Higher in WI (I commuted to MN and filled my tank here, so this didn’t affect me).
    Insurance: Higher in MN.
    Sales Tax: Higher in MN.

    The places we were looking in WI were lower than the places we were looking in MN…

    Income tax is usually higher in Minnesota too – but only at higher incomes. For most on this forum I would assume that applies [you have to have pretty low income for Minnesota to be cheaper]. And while sales taxes are higher in MN we tax fewer items – not an issue along the border where people go back and forth anyway.

    #153789 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    Yeah the income taxes taken out of my paychecks are in the $25 every 2 week range. It’s crazy.

    #153790 Quote
    dryflydryfly
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    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Yeah the income taxes taken out of my paychecks are in the $25 every 2 week range. It’s crazy.

    I believe – like Alaska and Texas – that NoDak funds quite a lot of gov’t from taxes and fees on oil – correct? Not sure about ND but know the other two do.

    #153791 Quote
    davescharfdavescharf
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    He’ll Alaska still sends all their residents checks every year because of the oil revenues they collect taxes on. It may not be great last year or this but they still get them

    #153792 Quote
    The RubeThe Rube
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    For income tax, even at my lower-middle class job, is about 25%.

    As for gas tax in WI, the old saying was “Fill up your car in MN, buy your booze in WI.” Had a few friends that crossed the border for work/pleasure/whatever.

    #153793 Quote
    MaizeMaize
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    @davescharf wrote:

    He’ll Alaska still sends all their residents checks every year because of the oil revenues they collect taxes on. It may not be great last year or this but they still get them

    Technically, the oil money goes into a giant ($54B) investment fund and the dividends from that, based on a five-year average, are what gets distributed to people that live in Alaska. So it’s much more dependent on the stock market than oil price. Last year was actually the highest dividend ever.

    #153794 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    @dryfly wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Yeah the income taxes taken out of my paychecks are in the $25 every 2 week range. It’s crazy.

    I believe – like Alaska and Texas – that NoDak funds quite a lot of gov’t from taxes and fees on oil – correct? Not sure about ND but know the other two do.

    From what I know, almost all of the oil money went into a general fund and supposedly wasn’t spent…now most of that is gone since the oil prices went in the tank. ND has always had low taxes, even before the oil. When I was a kid living in EGF, I always listened to my parents complain about taxes compared to ND.

    #153797 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    Finally made some more progress on the neverending bathroom project. Installed the in-floor heat, and poured the self-leveling concrete over it all, so it is ready for tile. Now I just hope my in floor heat still works after pouring, it did before…but I’ve been burned on this before in my other bathroom.

    Next up: sheetrock and cement board

    #153798 Quote
    fightclub30fightclub30
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    @Neat Hat wrote:

    Finally made some more progress on the neverending bathroom project. Installed the in-floor heat, and poured the self-leveling concrete over it all, so it is ready for tile. Now I just hope my in floor heat still works after pouring, it did before…but I’ve been burned on this before in my other bathroom.

    Next up: sheetrock and cement board

    Check it before and after with a megohmmeter… Using poly behind the cement board or a surface applied membrane?

    #153799 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    Finally made some more progress on the neverending bathroom project. Installed the in-floor heat, and poured the self-leveling concrete over it all, so it is ready for tile. Now I just hope my in floor heat still works after pouring, it did before…but I’ve been burned on this before in my other bathroom.

    Next up: sheetrock and cement board

    Check it before and after with a megohmmeter… Using poly behind the cement board or a surface applied membrane?

    Good luck finding one of those. I bought the Schluter in floor heat and they only warranty it if you test it before, during and after with a megohmmeter. I called 3 electricians and no one had one.

    What I liked about the Schluter system is you run 2 different lines and if one doesn’t work, you have another one already down.

    #153800 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    Finally made some more progress on the neverending bathroom project. Installed the in-floor heat, and poured the self-leveling concrete over it all, so it is ready for tile. Now I just hope my in floor heat still works after pouring, it did before…but I’ve been burned on this before in my other bathroom.

    Next up: sheetrock and cement board

    Check it before and after with a megohmmeter… Using poly behind the cement board or a surface applied membrane?

    Good luck finding one of those. I bought the Schluter in floor heat and they only warranty it if you test it before, during and after with a megohmmeter. I called 3 electricians and no one had one.

    What I liked about the Schluter system is you run 2 different lines and if one doesn’t work, you have another one already down.

    I tested everything I could before. We’ll see what happens. Only one line running with this brand, but everything checked out immediately before pouring.

    #153801 Quote
    BigbeerBigbeer
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    @dryfly wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @HockeyBum wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Another reason I am glad I live in ND. Mine have increased about 4% in the last 5 years and they were pretty low to start with.

    I’ve always wondered why someone living in the Red River Valley would choose to live on the Minnesota side of the border (Moorhead, EGF, etc…). Taxes are considerably more friendly in ND, are they not?

    They are in western Wisconson too. My wife and I were considering moving to western WI, for several reasons, including being closer to family, and still being able to commute to the cities, but that went out the window when my wife took a job in the far western suburbs.

    I lived in Hudson about 10 years ago. Property taxes were significantly higher in Wisconsin than in Minnesota. At least they were at that time. Minnesota’s seem to be catching up quickly though.

    Here are the differences I found when I lived there:

    Property tax: Higher in WI.
    Gas tax: Higher in WI (I commuted to MN and filled my tank here, so this didn’t affect me).
    Insurance: Higher in MN.
    Sales Tax: Higher in MN.

    The places we were looking in WI were lower than the places we were looking in MN…

    Income tax is usually higher in Minnesota too – but only at higher incomes. For most on this forum I would assume that applies [you have to have pretty low income for Minnesota to be cheaper]. And while sales taxes are higher in MN we tax fewer items – not an issue along the border where people go back and forth anyway.

    Property taxes in the City of Hudson, basically the river to exit 2, are higher. Outside of that they are lower.

    #153802 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    Finally made some more progress on the neverending bathroom project. Installed the in-floor heat, and poured the self-leveling concrete over it all, so it is ready for tile. Now I just hope my in floor heat still works after pouring, it did before…but I’ve been burned on this before in my other bathroom.

    Next up: sheetrock and cement board

    Check it before and after with a megohmmeter… Using poly behind the cement board or a surface applied membrane?

    I have extra sheeting from my outside wall vapor barrier, so planning on using that.

    #153803 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    Finally made some more progress on the neverending bathroom project. Installed the in-floor heat, and poured the self-leveling concrete over it all, so it is ready for tile. Now I just hope my in floor heat still works after pouring, it did before…but I’ve been burned on this before in my other bathroom.

    Next up: sheetrock and cement board

    Check it before and after with a megohmmeter… Using poly behind the cement board or a surface applied membrane?

    Good luck finding one of those. I bought the Schluter in floor heat and they only warranty it if you test it before, during and after with a megohmmeter. I called 3 electricians and no one had one.

    What I liked about the Schluter system is you run 2 different lines and if one doesn’t work, you have another one already down.

    I tested everything I could before. We’ll see what happens. Only one line running with this brand, but everything checked out immediately before pouring.

    You should be fine. It’s a nerve-racking feeling though from when you put the wire down until you flip the switch and feel warmth!

    #153804 Quote
    fightclub30fightclub30
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    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    Finally made some more progress on the neverending bathroom project. Installed the in-floor heat, and poured the self-leveling concrete over it all, so it is ready for tile. Now I just hope my in floor heat still works after pouring, it did before…but I’ve been burned on this before in my other bathroom.

    Next up: sheetrock and cement board

    Check it before and after with a megohmmeter… Using poly behind the cement board or a surface applied membrane?

    Good luck finding one of those. I bought the Schluter in floor heat and they only warranty it if you test it before, during and after with a megohmmeter. I called 3 electricians and no one had one.

    What I liked about the Schluter system is you run 2 different lines and if one doesn’t work, you have another one already down.

    I tested everything I could before. We’ll see what happens. Only one line running with this brand, but everything checked out immediately before pouring.

    You should be fine. It’s a nerve-racking feeling though from when you put the wire down until you flip the switch and feel warmth!

    weird… I found a megohmmeter no problem. Amazon for about $200, and almost made my money back charging people $25 to use it for a weekend almost solely for the purposes of installing in-floor heat.

    I used WarmWire, but with schluter everything else (Ditra Heat Membrane, Kerdi on the walls, etc. etc.).

    Schluter’s wire has come down in price and the thermostat finally doesn’t look outdated. At the time, I just could not justify double the cost for schluter vs warmwire. Having said that, I ran it slightly too far apart and now my floor “only” gets to about 84/85. While that is almost too hot for me, my wife and her cold feet would like warmer. I did got with a 240v system and it seems to heat up quickly, I also put it on a 20amp breaker, so hopefully when I go to tile my entry/kitchen/living room I can run 240v there all of the same circuit. I already ran and setup the junction box in the closet trying to think ahead.

    NeatHat, as long as you use something to waterproof your shower/tub. Poly behind the cement board is just fine as long as the pan and everything is tied in properly. I cannot tell you how many people I see redo-ing bathrooms with zero waterproofing system. Cementboard, thinset, tile and grout do NOT make a waterproof system. Especially when you grout your corners and it cracks; go with 100% silicone and you will be happy.

    EDIT: Amazon even has a $50 megohmmeter right now:

    https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Insulation-Resistance-Tester-Megohmmeter/dp/B00KR94JRE/ref=pd_lpo_328_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B9RH4GJ9N36E3GZNS1JZ

    #153805 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
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    My dad is a tile guy. Corners always crack. Always caulk the corners (and the edge of the tile).

    #153806 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @Bertogliat wrote:

    My dad is a tile guy. Corners always crack. Always caulk the corners (and the edge of the tile).

    When you say caulk the corners, you mean instead of using grout, caulk them instead? I have cracked corners in my other bathroom, and trying to avoid that this time, and already was considering just caulking them.

    Also, one of the 3 batches of concrete I made didn’t set, and it has been way too long for it not to have. Not sure what happened, as I was very careful to get the ratio right and did the exact same process on all 3 batches. All were the same, but one didn’t go right. I put a fan on it for the day, hopefully that works, or I’ll have a big mess on my hands. It just needs to be solid and level so I can tile!

    #153807 Quote
    fightclub30fightclub30
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    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @Bertogliat wrote:

    My dad is a tile guy. Corners always crack. Always caulk the corners (and the edge of the tile).

    When you say caulk the corners, you mean instead of using grout, caulk them instead? I have cracked corners in my other bathroom, and trying to avoid that this time, and already was considering just caulking them.

    Also, one of the 3 batches of concrete I made didn’t set, and it has been way too long for it not to have. Not sure what happened, as I was very careful to get the ratio right and did the exact same process on all 3 batches. All were the same, but one didn’t go right. I put a fan on it for the day, hopefully that works, or I’ll have a big mess on my hands. It just needs to be solid and level so I can tile!

    Any change of plane should be caulked instead of grouted, and I would recommend 100% silicone in a wet environment, all day, every day, and twice on sundays.

    Actually it just needs to be flat, the Tile won’t care if its level or not… :biggrin2:

    I am assuming you are talking about fat mud for a shower pan when you say the concrete hasn’t set. Did you check for the batch/lot date on the bag of concrete? Sometimes buying product from a big box store I’d have bags of really old stuff get mixed in with relatively new stuff. At Menards once I had a bag of thinset that was over a year old in between 2 bags that were less than 2 months old. If it is a fairly old mix, that could effect its ability to set up properly.

    Not that this would affect its ability to set, but does it have the proper pre-slope in the pan liner underneath? Otherwise if there is excess water in there it will just sit…

    #153808 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
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    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @Bertogliat wrote:

    My dad is a tile guy. Corners always crack. Always caulk the corners (and the edge of the tile).

    When you say caulk the corners, you mean instead of using grout, caulk them instead? I have cracked corners in my other bathroom, and trying to avoid that this time, and already was considering just caulking them.

    Also, one of the 3 batches of concrete I made didn’t set, and it has been way too long for it not to have. Not sure what happened, as I was very careful to get the ratio right and did the exact same process on all 3 batches. All were the same, but one didn’t go right. I put a fan on it for the day, hopefully that works, or I’ll have a big mess on my hands. It just needs to be solid and level so I can tile!

    Any change of plane should be caulked instead of grouted, and I would recommend 100% silicone in a wet environment, all day, every day, and twice on sundays.

    Yes, caulk only in the corners. And fightclublub30 is correct on silicone. Also make sure to tape the caulk line where tile meet sheetrock. Any silicone residue left behind won’t accept paint so you need to make sure to tape those lines.

    Make sure the caulk is made for bathrooms. If you use the caulk that is intended for window and doors (weather proof) it will grow mold rather quickly.

    #153809 Quote
    Jane FondaJane Fonda
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    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @Bertogliat wrote:

    My dad is a tile guy. Corners always crack. Always caulk the corners (and the edge of the tile).

    When you say caulk the corners, you mean instead of using grout, caulk them instead? I have cracked corners in my other bathroom, and trying to avoid that this time, and already was considering just caulking them.

    Also, one of the 3 batches of concrete I made didn’t set, and it has been way too long for it not to have. Not sure what happened, as I was very careful to get the ratio right and did the exact same process on all 3 batches. All were the same, but one didn’t go right. I put a fan on it for the day, hopefully that works, or I’ll have a big mess on my hands. It just needs to be solid and level so I can tile!

    Any change of plane should be caulked instead of grouted, and I would recommend 100% silicone in a wet environment, all day, every day, and twice on sundays.

    Actually it just needs to be flat, the Tile won’t care if its level or not… :biggrin2:

    I am assuming you are talking about fat mud for a shower pan when you say the concrete hasn’t set. Did you check for the batch/lot date on the bag of concrete? Sometimes buying product from a big box store I’d have bags of really old stuff get mixed in with relatively new stuff. At Menards once I had a bag of thinset that was over a year old in between 2 bags that were less than 2 months old. If it is a fairly old mix, that could effect its ability to set up properly.

    Not that this would affect its ability to set, but does it have the proper pre-slope in the pan liner underneath? Otherwise if there is excess water in there it will just sit…

    No, the concrete is a self leveling concrete that I’m using to encase my in-floor heating elements, and level out the floor before tiling. It is just about 1/4 inch thick across the whole bathroom floor, to provide a good surface to tile. I didn’t check the date on the bags, but I bought them at Menards, so that definitely could be the case.

    Thanks for the advice on the silicon in the shower, I will definitely go that route.

    #153810 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Neat Hat wrote:

    @Bertogliat wrote:

    My dad is a tile guy. Corners always crack. Always caulk the corners (and the edge of the tile).

    When you say caulk the corners, you mean instead of using grout, caulk them instead? I have cracked corners in my other bathroom, and trying to avoid that this time, and already was considering just caulking them.

    Also, one of the 3 batches of concrete I made didn’t set, and it has been way too long for it not to have. Not sure what happened, as I was very careful to get the ratio right and did the exact same process on all 3 batches. All were the same, but one didn’t go right. I put a fan on it for the day, hopefully that works, or I’ll have a big mess on my hands. It just needs to be solid and level so I can tile!

    Any change of plane should be caulked instead of grouted, and I would recommend 100% silicone in a wet environment, all day, every day, and twice on sundays.

    Actually it just needs to be flat, the Tile won’t care if its level or not… :biggrin2:

    I am assuming you are talking about fat mud for a shower pan when you say the concrete hasn’t set. Did you check for the batch/lot date on the bag of concrete? Sometimes buying product from a big box store I’d have bags of really old stuff get mixed in with relatively new stuff. At Menards once I had a bag of thinset that was over a year old in between 2 bags that were less than 2 months old. If it is a fairly old mix, that could effect its ability to set up properly.

    Not that this would affect its ability to set, but does it have the proper pre-slope in the pan liner underneath? Otherwise if there is excess water in there it will just sit…

    No, the concrete is a self leveling concrete that I’m using to encase my in-floor heating elements, and level out the floor before tiling. It is just about 1/4 inch thick across the whole bathroom floor, to provide a good surface to tile. I didn’t check the date on the bags, but I bought them at Menards, so that definitely could be the case.

    Thanks for the advice on the silicon in the shower, I will definitely go that route.

    Self-leveler can be finicky. A little thicker than 1/4 and it doesn’t dry quick. Water temp changes it too. You should be fine with a fan and waiting a bit longer.

    When I used my Schluter stuff in mine, I struggled (in my mind) using an un-modified thin set as required because it is more brittle than the modified I use for floors, but from what I read, the modified would never cure with the Schluter because no where for moisture to go.

    I learned a ton and am proud that I did it all myself, but it was such a pain in the ass, especially only working on it in the evenings.

    #153811 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
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    The water in the slurry doesn’t have to go anywhere. It is needed in the finished concrete (or mortar, thinset, etc). The water is part of the chemical reaction and is retained in the hardened product.

    There is a little bit of water (especially in self leveling concrete that evaporates). As we all know it is responsible for the low number of home runs at Target field. That said I wouldn’t worry about it behind your schluter mat.

    As for using Schluter waterproofing, my dad always says he will sell them to you if you insist, but he wouldn’t put it in his bathroom. These were his words when I told him I was planning to use a Schluter mat when I renovated my bathroom 4 years ago.

    #153812 Quote
    fightclub30fightclub30
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    @MNGophers29 wrote:

    Self-leveler can be finicky. A little thicker than 1/4 and it doesn’t dry quick. Water temp changes it too. You should be fine with a fan and waiting a bit longer.

    When I used my Schluter stuff in mine, I struggled (in my mind) using an un-modified thin set as required because it is more brittle than the modified I use for floors, but from what I read, the modified would never cure with the Schluter because no where for moisture to go.

    I learned a ton and am proud that I did it all myself, but it was such a pain in the ass, especially only working on it in the evenings.

    Thin set needs to be a little thinner than typical when using Schluter’s products.

    DITRA needs modified to bond to the floor, and the plywood is recommended to be slightly damp so as to not pull moisture out of the thinset to quickly before the thin-set cures. The un-modified thinset is for between 2 impervious surfaces; i.e. Ditra/Kerdi and Ceramic Tile. So modified from Ditra to floor, unmodified everywhere else.

    If you used regular sheetrock, cement board, or hardie-board especially, they recommend running a damp sponge over the surface again before applying thinset to avoid it pulling moisture out of the thinset too quickly before you get a solid bond with the Kerdi.

    Also peel back to check for coverage and then re-embed it. Do not wait 24 hours and then peel to check for coverage. It will take a few days to fully cure. I’ve had several friends try it and peel it back after 12-24 hours, assume it didn’t stick, and throw it out and go a different direction.

    Many people use lightly modified (Kerabond) and still end up okay, it just void the “warranty” the schluter provides. I can take a square of Kerdi, cut a slit in it, fold it into a cone and pour water into it and have it hold water. The stuff is great and provided you follow instructions, I wouldn’t worry about their warranty as you shouldn’t need it.

    But modified or unmodified, neither should be brittle, they should be mixed to a peanut butter or toothpaste consistency – loose enough to work with, thick enough to hold a notch… Did you have “aggregate” falling our while working with it or something? Did you mix it properly and follow the instructions including the slake time that many DIY-ers neglect?

    #153814 Quote
    davescharfdavescharf
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    Does anyone know a place where I can get large sheets of plexiglass cut? I need approx 60×36 sized and the big box hardware stores can’t cut ones that tall.

    I only need a couple sheets but it’s a pain to try and cut them myself

    #153815 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
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    #153816 Quote
    davescharfdavescharf
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    @Bertogliat wrote:

    You could try it yourself.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vJSsJmttqHs

    http://m.wikihow.com/Cut-Plexiglass

    I think my neighbor and I are going to do that. We did it the last time but we just ran into a few issues getting it scored deep enough to break easily. At $70 a sheet I’d have been willing to pay for something more professional as long as it wasn’t too insane in terms of cost.

    #153817 Quote
    OrionOrion
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    @davescharf wrote:

    Does anyone know a place where I can get large sheets of plexiglass cut? I need approx 60×36 sized and the big box hardware stores can’t cut ones that tall.

    I only need a couple sheets but it’s a pain to try and cut them myself

    These guys could do it
    http://www.acrylicdesign.com

    #153818 Quote
    ThompsThomps
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    @Orion wrote:

    @davescharf wrote:

    Does anyone know a place where I can get large sheets of plexiglass cut? I need approx 60×36 sized and the big box hardware stores can’t cut ones that tall.

    I only need a couple sheets but it’s a pain to try and cut them myself

    These guys could do it
    http://www.acrylicdesign.com

    Just a standard rectangle? Check your local hardware store. I had a sheet cut to 3’x2′, and they had a huge contraption to cut it. I assume they could fit a 5′ peace on it. I went to Ace in Arden Hills. If you do it yourself, get the correct blade for cutting plexi, and then lock down your guide edge well.

    #153819 Quote
    BeaunerBeauner
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    How much money would it cost to upgrade/change out a shower?
    One of the houses I was looking at yesterday has a second shower but it’s basically just a plastic shower stall (like one you’d see at a cabin or an outdoor venue – no frills, just basically a plastic box standing in the room, no wall enclosures or anything) but it is hooked up to the water line etc.?

    I wouldn’t be looking for anything overly high-end, but it is something I’d like to upgrade if possible.

    #153820 Quote
    fightclub30fightclub30
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    @Beauner wrote:

    How much money would it cost to upgrade/change out a shower?
    One of the houses I was looking at yesterday has a second shower but it’s basically just a plastic shower stall (like one you’d see at a cabin or an outdoor venue – no frills, just basically a plastic box standing in the room, no wall enclosures or anything) but it is hooked up to the water line etc.?

    I wouldn’t be looking for anything overly high-end, but it is something I’d like to upgrade if possible.

    I mean it depends on what you’d like to do. You could keep things simply and spend a few hundred, or a few thousand. Do you need to add a wall? How much tile? Waterproofing? New fixtures or keep existing? Can you perform the work (I am willing to bet you can, even if you think you cannot…)? Or do you need to hire someone?

    You can get ceramic tile as low as $1.00/sq ft and natural stone to well over $50/sq ft. You can get a cheap $15 HomeDepot shower head, or you can go to the Kohler Store and get a $1,000 rain head.

    To DIY our Masterbath and redo everything cost us $20k, to DIY update and fix our leaky guest bath cost just under $3k… It all depends on what you want to do.

    #153821 Quote
    davescharfdavescharf
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    @Thomps wrote:

    @Orion wrote:

    @davescharf wrote:

    Does anyone know a place where I can get large sheets of plexiglass cut? I need approx 60×36 sized and the big box hardware stores can’t cut ones that tall.

    I only need a couple sheets but it’s a pain to try and cut them myself

    These guys could do it
    http://www.acrylicdesign.com

    Just a standard rectangle? Check your local hardware store. I had a sheet cut to 3’x2′, and they had a huge contraption to cut it. I assume they could fit a 5′ peace on it. I went to Ace in Arden Hills. If you do it yourself, get the correct blade for cutting plexi, and then lock down your guide edge well.

    Yes, but it’s 65″ tall so Lowe’s contraption couldn’t do it. I may call a couple local Ace stores and that one in Arden Hills to see if they can. Otherwise we’ll just do it ourselves

    #153822 Quote
    GopherPeteGopherPete
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    @davescharf wrote:

    @Thomps wrote:

    @Orion wrote:

    @davescharf wrote:

    Does anyone know a place where I can get large sheets of plexiglass cut? I need approx 60×36 sized and the big box hardware stores can’t cut ones that tall.

    I only need a couple sheets but it’s a pain to try and cut them myself

    These guys could do it
    http://www.acrylicdesign.com

    Just a standard rectangle? Check your local hardware store. I had a sheet cut to 3’x2′, and they had a huge contraption to cut it. I assume they could fit a 5′ peace on it. I went to Ace in Arden Hills. If you do it yourself, get the correct blade for cutting plexi, and then lock down your guide edge well.

    Yes, but it’s 65″ tall so Lowe’s contraption couldn’t do it. I may call a couple local Ace stores and that one in Arden Hills to see if they can. Otherwise we’ll just do it ourselves

    I’d recommend to check w/ glass stores. We bought a piece (approx. 48″ x 12″) and had it cut and cost less than $50 total.

    #153823 Quote
    BeaunerBeauner
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    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @Beauner wrote:

    How much money would it cost to upgrade/change out a shower?
    One of the houses I was looking at yesterday has a second shower but it’s basically just a plastic shower stall (like one you’d see at a cabin or an outdoor venue – no frills, just basically a plastic box standing in the room, no wall enclosures or anything) but it is hooked up to the water line etc.?

    I wouldn’t be looking for anything overly high-end, but it is something I’d like to upgrade if possible.

    I mean it depends on what you’d like to do. You could keep things simply and spend a few hundred, or a few thousand. Do you need to add a wall? How much tile? Waterproofing? New fixtures or keep existing? Can you perform the work (I am willing to bet you can, even if you think you cannot…)? Or do you need to hire someone?

    You can get ceramic tile as low as $1.00/sq ft and natural stone to well over $50/sq ft. You can get a cheap $15 HomeDepot shower head, or you can go to the Kohler Store and get a $1,000 rain head.

    To DIY our Masterbath and redo everything cost us $20k, to DIY update and fix our leaky guest bath cost just under $3k… It all depends on what you want to do.

    Yeah this is going to be more on the cheap side than a “master bath” type shower. It’s a shower in the basement basically.
    This is basically what they have in there now:

    I wouldn’t be looking to do anything super high-end but would definitely want to upgrade that to something a little more presentable at some point (if I even end up buying this house).
    That part is really the only concern I had with the whole house though, which I think is a plus.

    #153824 Quote
    davescharfdavescharf
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    Yes, it’s a plus if that’s the only big concern

    #153825 Quote
    BeaunerBeauner
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    @davescharf wrote:

    Yes, it’s a plus if that’s the only big concern

    Yeah from what I could see it was the only issue. I really liked the rest of the set up.

    #153827 Quote
    fightclub30fightclub30
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    3 years ago we had the inducer motor replaced on a 4 year old Carrier furnace when it was making an awful grinding noise. (side note, the 10 year warranty changes to 5 years for the “second owner” since we bought the house after it was installed as part of our purchase agreement. So if you buy a house, install the furnace yourself and get money for it…)

    Last year it was making a buzzing noise and they adjusted the bracket which the inducer motor sits on. This year same noise again… They adjust the bracket the inducer motor sits on and say it is a design flaw and Carrier (or whoever makes the part) redesigned it and it no longer has this issue. It will be $1,350 to replace the inducer motor. :shock: :shock: :shock: Isn’t that about what a new furnace would cost? Can’t be far off…

    I guess the new design was not out yet when it was replaced under warranty, and what a shock, now we are in our first year outside of warranty. Since this is a design flaw, and obviously a “known problem” shouldn’t carrier kick in a bit to keep a customer?

    Anyway, I can find the new inducer motor online for $395. Is this something a mechanically included person can do? Maybe with youtube help?

    I have replaced timing belts in cars, do minor electrical and plumbing work for myself and friends. I feel like this is something I could tackle, but maybe I am way off base.

    #153828 Quote
    ThompsThomps
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    @fightclub30 wrote:

    3 years ago we had the inducer motor replaced on a 4 year old Carrier furnace when it was making an awful grinding noise. (side note, the 10 year warranty changes to 5 years for the “second owner” since we bought the house after it was installed as part of our purchase agreement. So if you buy a house, install the furnace yourself and get money for it…)

    Last year it was making a buzzing noise and they adjusted the bracket which the inducer motor sits on. This year same noise again… They adjust the bracket the inducer motor sits on and say it is a design flaw and Carrier (or whoever makes the part) redesigned it and it no longer has this issue. It will be $1,350 to replace the inducer motor. :shock: :shock: :shock: Isn’t that about what a new furnace would cost? Can’t be far off…

    I guess the new design was not out yet when it was replaced under warranty, and what a shock, now we are in our first year outside of warranty. Since this is a design flaw, and obviously a “known problem” shouldn’t carrier kick in a bit to keep a customer?

    Anyway, I can find the new inducer motor online for $395. Is this something a mechanically included person can do? Maybe with youtube help?

    I have replaced timing belts in cars, do minor electrical and plumbing work for myself and friends. I feel like this is something I could tackle, but maybe I am way off base.

    Failed Induction motor. I know the feeling. My bearing went out on me on Friday. The new furnace just went in about an hour ago. I could have just replaced the motor, but the black plastic separation plate was cracked, so I just replaced the whole furnace. Goodbye, 16 yr old Goodman. I just put in a Night and Day 2 stage, variable fan, 96% furnace, and the cost was around $3500 to give you a ballpark idea. If you want a guy to talk to about fixing your furnace or replacing it, I can give you a referral. I trust this guy, and he definitely knows what he is talking about.

    As for replacing the induction motor yourself, I would imagine it is easy just by looking at it. But I haven’t done one myself ever.

    #153829 Quote
    KarlssonKarlsson
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    I’ve finally gotten rid of all food sources for the mice that like to frequent our laundry room. (Vera had a variety of dog treats stashed all over the place) The evidence has definitely dropped. Time to set some traps before the next cold snap. This is going to be awesome. I can’t for the life of me figure out how they’re getting in. It’s an old house (1927) so I feel like that approach is a fool’s errand. I have identified their main travel points though. This is going to be awesome. No poison because of our animals, and I don’t want them croaking in the walls.

    I’ve been given clearance to use kill traps. Vera doesn’t like it, but as long as I dispose of them and she doesn’t see it she has reluctantly agreed.

    This is going to be awesome.

    #153830 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
    • Posts: 1201
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    @Thomps wrote:

    @fightclub30 wrote:

    3 years ago we had the inducer motor replaced on a 4 year old Carrier furnace when it was making an awful grinding noise. (side note, the 10 year warranty changes to 5 years for the “second owner” since we bought the house after it was installed as part of our purchase agreement. So if you buy a house, install the furnace yourself and get money for it…)

    Last year it was making a buzzing noise and they adjusted the bracket which the inducer motor sits on. This year same noise again… They adjust the bracket the inducer motor sits on and say it is a design flaw and Carrier (or whoever makes the part) redesigned it and it no longer has this issue. It will be $1,350 to replace the inducer motor. :shock: :shock: :shock: Isn’t that about what a new furnace would cost? Can’t be far off…

    I guess the new design was not out yet when it was replaced under warranty, and what a shock, now we are in our first year outside of warranty. Since this is a design flaw, and obviously a “known problem” shouldn’t carrier kick in a bit to keep a customer?

    Anyway, I can find the new inducer motor online for $395. Is this something a mechanically included person can do? Maybe with youtube help?

    I have replaced timing belts in cars, do minor electrical and plumbing work for myself and friends. I feel like this is something I could tackle, but maybe I am way off base.

    Failed Induction motor. I know the feeling. My bearing went out on me on Friday. The new furnace just went in about an hour ago. I could have just replaced the motor, but the black plastic separation plate was cracked, so I just replaced the whole furnace. Goodbye, 16 yr old Goodman. I just put in a Night and Day 2 stage, variable fan, 96% furnace, and the cost was around $3500 to give you a ballpark idea. If you want a guy to talk to about fixing your furnace or replacing it, I can give you a referral. I trust this guy, and he definitely knows what he is talking about.

    As for replacing the induction motor yourself, I would imagine it is easy just by looking at it. But I haven’t done one myself ever.

    FYI for the future, we paid for the Centerpoint Service plus and they replaced our induction motor for free. We really got our money out of that plan as they replaced mother boards on our oven and our washing machine and had to replace the temperature/flame sensor on our furnace about 5 times. It was a good Lenox furnace but the temperature/flame sensor was terrible.

    #153831 Quote
    Reg DunlopReg Dunlop
    • Posts: 43
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    @Bertogliat wrote:

    @Thomps wrote:

    @fightclub30 wrote:

    3 years ago we had the inducer motor replaced on a 4 year old Carrier furnace when it was making an awful grinding noise. (side note, the 10 year warranty changes to 5 years for the “second owner” since we bought the house after it was installed as part of our purchase agreement. So if you buy a house, install the furnace yourself and get money for it…)

    Last year it was making a buzzing noise and they adjusted the bracket which the inducer motor sits on. This year same noise again… They adjust the bracket the inducer motor sits on and say it is a design flaw and Carrier (or whoever makes the part) redesigned it and it no longer has this issue. It will be $1,350 to replace the inducer motor. :shock: :shock: :shock: Isn’t that about what a new furnace would cost? Can’t be far off…

    I guess the new design was not out yet when it was replaced under warranty, and what a shock, now we are in our first year outside of warranty. Since this is a design flaw, and obviously a “known problem” shouldn’t carrier kick in a bit to keep a customer?

    Anyway, I can find the new inducer motor online for $395. Is this something a mechanically included person can do? Maybe with youtube help?

    I have replaced timing belts in cars, do minor electrical and plumbing work for myself and friends. I feel like this is something I could tackle, but maybe I am way off base.

    Failed Induction motor. I know the feeling. My bearing went out on me on Friday. The new furnace just went in about an hour ago. I could have just replaced the motor, but the black plastic separation plate was cracked, so I just replaced the whole furnace. Goodbye, 16 yr old Goodman. I just put in a Night and Day 2 stage, variable fan, 96% furnace, and the cost was around $3500 to give you a ballpark idea. If you want a guy to talk to about fixing your furnace or replacing it, I can give you a referral. I trust this guy, and he definitely knows what he is talking about.

    As for replacing the induction motor yourself, I would imagine it is easy just by looking at it. But I haven’t done one myself ever.

    FYI for the future, we paid for the Centerpoint Service plus and they replaced our induction motor for free. We really got our money out of that plan as they replaced mother boards on our oven and our washing machine and had to replace the temperature/flame sensor on our furnace about 5 times. It was a good Lenox furnace but the temperature/flame sensor was terrible.

    Agreed. We have to have them come out and clean/replace our flame sensor every year. Never a fee. They also have done some minor stuff to our washer and dryer. Best money we’ve spent.

    #153832 Quote
    MaizeMaize
    • Posts: 104
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    @Bertogliat wrote:

    FYI for the future, we paid for the Centerpoint Service plus and they replaced our induction motor for free. We really got our money out of that plan as they replaced mother boards on our oven and our washing machine and had to replace the temperature/flame sensor on our furnace about 5 times. It was a good Lenox furnace but the temperature/flame sensor was terrible.

    For you, or anyone else, did you ever try cleaning the flame sensor? On our old furnace, which I think might have been a Lenox, we had to pop out the flame sensor and rub it down with steel wool about once a year to clean off all the residue build-up in order to keep it working.

    #153833 Quote
    fightclub30fightclub30
    • Posts: 223
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    @Reg Dunlop wrote:

    @Bertogliat wrote:

    @Thomps wrote:

    @fightclub30 wrote:

    3 years ago we had the inducer motor replaced on a 4 year old Carrier furnace when it was making an awful grinding noise. (side note, the 10 year warranty changes to 5 years for the “second owner” since we bought the house after it was installed as part of our purchase agreement. So if you buy a house, install the furnace yourself and get money for it…)

    Last year it was making a buzzing noise and they adjusted the bracket which the inducer motor sits on. This year same noise again… They adjust the bracket the inducer motor sits on and say it is a design flaw and Carrier (or whoever makes the part) redesigned it and it no longer has this issue. It will be $1,350 to replace the inducer motor. :shock: :shock: :shock: Isn’t that about what a new furnace would cost? Can’t be far off…

    I guess the new design was not out yet when it was replaced under warranty, and what a shock, now we are in our first year outside of warranty. Since this is a design flaw, and obviously a “known problem” shouldn’t carrier kick in a bit to keep a customer?

    Anyway, I can find the new inducer motor online for $395. Is this something a mechanically included person can do? Maybe with youtube help?

    I have replaced timing belts in cars, do minor electrical and plumbing work for myself and friends. I feel like this is something I could tackle, but maybe I am way off base.

    Failed Induction motor. I know the feeling. My bearing went out on me on Friday. The new furnace just went in about an hour ago. I could have just replaced the motor, but the black plastic separation plate was cracked, so I just replaced the whole furnace. Goodbye, 16 yr old Goodman. I just put in a Night and Day 2 stage, variable fan, 96% furnace, and the cost was around $3500 to give you a ballpark idea. If you want a guy to talk to about fixing your furnace or replacing it, I can give you a referral. I trust this guy, and he definitely knows what he is talking about.

    As for replacing the induction motor yourself, I would imagine it is easy just by looking at it. But I haven’t done one myself ever.

    FYI for the future, we paid for the Centerpoint Service plus and they replaced our induction motor for free. We really got our money out of that plan as they replaced mother boards on our oven and our washing machine and had to replace the temperature/flame sensor on our furnace about 5 times. It was a good Lenox furnace but the temperature/flame sensor was terrible.

    Agreed. We have to have them come out and clean/replace our flame sensor every year. Never a fee. They also have done some minor stuff to our washer and dryer. Best money we’ve spent.

    We’ve been in the house 5 years and this is the first repair not covered under warranty on the furnace. I fixed our dishwasher myself when it went out (with the help of youtube, haha) and replace the thermocouple on the water heater. Honestly, we’ve been pretty luck with our lack of maintenance on that side of things.

    We first looked into when we moved in, but opted not to do it because it wasn’t completely clear to me… “$45 gets you X, Y, and Z appliances covered. You just pay a flat fee of X amount anytime you need a service call ($100 I think) and we cover the rest. $65 adds appliances U, V, and W and the service call amount is this.” What happens when something goes out? Do you covered the cost of replacing the entire unit? “well yes and no” Great… thats helpful. So 5 years at $45/month I’d be out $2,700 at this point, but also not have a $1,300 repair staring me in the face…

    My dad had Home Service Plus and eventually dropped it because he said they kept coming out for service calls on his 20+ year old A/C unit and limping it along rather than just replacing it. He said he spent probably close to $1,200 in service calls in 2 years on his A/C before he dropped the service and had someone replace it, according to him even after telling them he will just pay them to replace it. He also said he had to pick from their HSP “approved” products. He could not select his own thermostat, which A/C unit he wanted if replaced, etc. That would be a major sticking point for me as well, I really like my Ecobee 3 thermostat. I also like the fact that the people who installed my equipment are coming out to repair it and know the system, rather than someone new every time.

    Our water softener and furnace were replaced weeks before we moved in as part of purchase agreement. Other appliances are pretty old and we would probably just replace rather than repair once they go out (range, dishwasher, clothes washer and dryer, etc. all have seen much better days). Could someone lay out for me what it costs and what is/isnt covered?

    #153834 Quote
    Steve MNSteve MN
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    @Maize wrote:

    @Bertogliat wrote:

    FYI for the future, we paid for the Centerpoint Service plus and they replaced our induction motor for free. We really got our money out of that plan as they replaced mother boards on our oven and our washing machine and had to replace the temperature/flame sensor on our furnace about 5 times. It was a good Lenox furnace but the temperature/flame sensor was terrible.

    For you, or anyone else, did you ever try cleaning the flame sensor? On our old furnace, which I think might have been a Lenox, we had to pop out the flame sensor and rub it down with steel wool about once a year to clean off all the residue build-up in order to keep it working.

    My first or second winter in my house, I had an intermittent furnace problem that I couldn’t figure out. Turned out to be a flame sensor. When the tech showed up, he made sure to show me how to deal with that in the future, which was greatly appreciated. Haven’t had a problem since (seven years or so now), but I think I’ll pull the sensor tonight and scrub it off, just to be sure.

    #153835 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
    • Posts: 1201
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    @Steve MN wrote:

    @Maize wrote:

    @Bertogliat wrote:

    FYI for the future, we paid for the Centerpoint Service plus and they replaced our induction motor for free. We really got our money out of that plan as they replaced mother boards on our oven and our washing machine and had to replace the temperature/flame sensor on our furnace about 5 times. It was a good Lenox furnace but the temperature/flame sensor was terrible.

    For you, or anyone else, did you ever try cleaning the flame sensor? On our old furnace, which I think might have been a Lenox, we had to pop out the flame sensor and rub it down with steel wool about once a year to clean off all the residue build-up in order to keep it working.

    My first or second winter in my house, I had an intermittent furnace problem that I couldn’t figure out. Turned out to be a flame sensor. When the tech showed up, he made sure to show me how to deal with that in the future, which was greatly appreciated. Haven’t had a problem since (seven years or so now), but I think I’ll pull the sensor tonight and scrub it off, just to be sure.

    I would do this on my own from time to time, but every now and then I would have them come out and install a new one. A couple of times they left the old one for me so I had a back up ready to go. They just left the old one sitting on the ledge inside the housing.

    But one time I had them come out to clean the furnace and the bastard who cleaned it took the old flame sensor (maybe he thought it was trash?). :chainsaw:

    #153836 Quote
    ThompsThomps
    • Posts: 21
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    @Bertogliat wrote:

    @Steve MN wrote:

    @Maize wrote:

    @Bertogliat wrote:

    FYI for the future, we paid for the Centerpoint Service plus and they replaced our induction motor for free. We really got our money out of that plan as they replaced mother boards on our oven and our washing machine and had to replace the temperature/flame sensor on our furnace about 5 times. It was a good Lenox furnace but the temperature/flame sensor was terrible.

    For you, or anyone else, did you ever try cleaning the flame sensor? On our old furnace, which I think might have been a Lenox, we had to pop out the flame sensor and rub it down with steel wool about once a year to clean off all the residue build-up in order to keep it working.

    My first or second winter in my house, I had an intermittent furnace problem that I couldn’t figure out. Turned out to be a flame sensor. When the tech showed up, he made sure to show me how to deal with that in the future, which was greatly appreciated. Haven’t had a problem since (seven years or so now), but I think I’ll pull the sensor tonight and scrub it off, just to be sure.

    I would do this on my own from time to time, but every now and then I would have them come out and install a new one. A couple of times they left the old one for me so I had a back up ready to go. They just left the old one sitting on the ledge inside the housing.

    But one time I had them come out to clean the furnace and the bastard who cleaned it took the old flame sensor (maybe he thought it was trash?). :chainsaw:

    Anyone ever use the Honeywell Prestige IAQ system? I am thinking about installing this in my house. Looking for any user opinions out there.

    #153837 Quote
    KarlssonKarlsson
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    So far I’ve been all talk about getting the mouse traps. Never got around to it. I must do so tomorrow, though. Finally saw one of the jerks. Just chillin in our kitchen. Tells me I definitely got rid of their food supply downstairs. I saw where the bastard ran to get back downstairs, so a trap will definitely be placed there along with the spots I have already identified downstairs.

    #153838 Quote
    GO4GO4
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    Anyone ever go through the process of building a new house? We are starting discussions to build with Capstone Homes so any feedback on the builder themselves, questions or concerns to bring to the table about the process, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to PM if you don’t want to air any dirty laundry in public. :)

    #153839 Quote
    WPoSWPoS
    • Posts: 65
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    @GO4 wrote:

    Anyone ever go through the process of building a new house? We are starting discussions to build with Capstone Homes so any feedback on the builder themselves, questions or concerns to bring to the table about the process, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to PM if you don’t want to air any dirty laundry in public. :)

    It’s YOUR house, don’t let the builder railroad you on things. When I built my first house the builder insisted that’s where the furnace HAD to go, cost me lost space in the basement and was done to make it easier for the HVAC guys, not because it HAD to go there (luckily I ended up using the space for a shop). Also make sure things make sense…washer in the basement with no floor drain local begs to have an issue if it ever breaks and floods the basement. Stuff like that. They will try to up-sell you on stuff, do your research and stand by what YOU want.

    W

    #153840 Quote
    fightclub30fightclub30
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    @GO4 wrote:

    Anyone ever go through the process of building a new house? We are starting discussions to build with Capstone Homes so any feedback on the builder themselves, questions or concerns to bring to the table about the process, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to PM if you don’t want to air any dirty laundry in public. :)

    I am an Architect and usually have an aversion to “builders”. Because they want it done cheaply and quickly, which is usually at the expense of properly.

    The little bit of residential work we do no longer has house-wrap or vapor barriers. We do rigid “out-sulation” with taped seams. I cringe when I see house wrap flapping in the breeze on multi-million dollar homes in wayzata on the lake. House wrap is so, so rarely installed properly that we stopped using it and went with

    The number of improperly installed windows/doors we see is kind of scary. We have seen doors and windows installed against what the manufacturer publishes for their product and hear “this is how we install all our windows”. Which doesn’t make it any less wrong.

    The number of showers that aren’t water-proofed correctly is staggering… Cement board, tile, and grout is not waterproof, you need an actual waterproofing system in place (there are several means and methods available). The things city inspectors are willing to approve and pass off as acceptable kind of bothers me.

    Basement floor slabs without insulation and/or vapor barrier. CMU foundation walls (just a bad idea in general) that aren’t waterproofed correctly…

    The terms “Builder-Grade” come about for a reason. It is usually similar in quality to, and some times worse than, the things you’d find in Menards. Builder-grade windows versus Marvin or Anderson. Builder-grade plumbing fixtures versus say Kohler, Delta, or Toto.

    If you ask a builder for details of things, or that they follow TCNA, ANSI, etc. standards (which should be followed anyway…) and they tell you it is going to increase the cost, that is a red flag.

    Of course I am biased, and would love to see everyone hire an architect. There are also many builder grade homes that last a reasonably long time, and architect designed homes that have their own problems. We have started to view homes as commodities/investment and trade it in every 3-5 years to maximizing profit rather than a home that you live in for 20-30 years.

    Also remember get the things you want in the house priced from the start; removals are dimes, additions are dollars. (I.e. taking out that kitchen Island once construction has started would get you back $2,500, but adding it once construction has started will probably cost $7,500).

    #153841 Quote
    g-manpuckg-manpuck
    • Posts: 397
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    @fightclub30 wrote:

    @GO4 wrote:

    Anyone ever go through the process of building a new house? We are starting discussions to build with Capstone Homes so any feedback on the builder themselves, questions or concerns to bring to the table about the process, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to PM if you don’t want to air any dirty laundry in public. :)

    I am an Architect and usually have an aversion to “builders”. Because they want it done cheaply and quickly, which is usually at the expense of properly.

    The little bit of residential work we do no longer has house-wrap or vapor barriers. We do rigid “out-sulation” with taped seams. I cringe when I see house wrap flapping in the breeze on multi-million dollar homes in wayzata on the lake. House wrap is so, so rarely installed properly that we stopped using it and went with

    The number of improperly installed windows/doors we see is kind of scary. We have seen doors and windows installed against what the manufacturer publishes for their product and hear “this is how we install all our windows”. Which doesn’t make it any less wrong.

    The number of showers that aren’t water-proofed correctly is staggering… Cement board, tile, and grout is not waterproof, you need an actual waterproofing system in place (there are several means and methods available). The things city inspectors are willing to approve and pass off as acceptable kind of bothers me.

    Basement floor slabs without insulation and/or vapor barrier. CMU foundation walls (just a bad idea in general) that aren’t waterproofed correctly…

    The terms “Builder-Grade” come about for a reason. It is usually similar in quality to, and some times worse than, the things you’d find in Menards. Builder-grade windows versus Marvin or Anderson. Builder-grade plumbing fixtures versus say Kohler, Delta, or Toto.

    If you ask a builder for details of things, or that they follow TCNA, ANSI, etc. standards (which should be followed anyway…) and they tell you it is going to increase the cost, that is a red flag.

    Of course I am biased, and would love to see everyone hire an architect. There are also many builder grade homes that last a reasonably long time, and architect designed homes that have their own problems. We have started to view homes as commodities/investment and trade it in every 3-5 years to maximizing profit rather than a home that you live in for 20-30 years.

    Also remember get the things you want in the house priced from the start; removals are dimes, additions are dollars. (I.e. taking out that kitchen Island once construction has started would get you back $2,500, but adding it once construction has started will probably cost $7,500).

    My Dad was a contractor and was the general for a couple whole house builds during his years in business otherwise he stuck to remodeling mainly. In those couple builds though he strongly encouraged the homeowners to go to an architect to have the house drawn up professionally and get the layout nailed down. Once the boots hit the ground that main drawing wouldn’t change greatly only the small details. It helped alleviate numerous issues and problems that could delay a build using a builder off of some “plans” that they have to choose from.

    Also I agree that the amount of corner cutting to proper installation of just about anything is staggering just in the name of time and getting it done. Hell I had a fight on my hands over the holidays when I went to Iowa a couple weekends to help my in-laws on some remodeling in their house. It can either be done or done right and a lot of times done right may cost more in money or it may cost more in time….but anything is possible if you are willing to spend the money and the time.

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