Portal Forum General General Discussion Home Ownership

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  • #154267 Quote
    JWGJWG
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    With the bitter cold temperatures and very low humidity outside, condensation will be a big issue for homes on the inside. Time to turn down the humidistat inside the house.

    #154268 Quote
    ThompsThomps
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    Run a humidifier to draw some of the moisture out of your house as well as turn down your humidifier if you have one of those. My humidifier is controlled by my thermostat, and looks out outside temps as well… it is barely ever on.

    #154269 Quote
    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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    Alright so here is the skinny on condensation/frost on windows this time of year.

    Most wood/laminate flooring needs 35-55% humidity to maintain. No way you can do that in the winter without your windows running water and becoming an ice brick. For those that have condensation and frost, it’s a double edged sword. You need to open your blinds and put a fan on the window. The blinds open will allow the heat to melt the frost and the fan will dry it. It sucks.

    Andersen has some good info on sweating and all that stuff, but it pertains to their windows that are super efficient.

    #154270 Quote
    BertogliatBertogliat
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    When we installed new windows on our old house we had condensation/frost at colder temps. We had blinds that could open at top and bottom and we cracked the top and left bottom about a third open. This would create a little air flow next to the window (like a radiator). In the coldest days we would have to wipe the frost off the bottom of the windows in the morning.

    #154271 Quote
    gopherguy06gopherguy06
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      Yeah, it is all over the house, so the fans will be tough. The blinds are open at the top and bottom.

      Might have to look into the Humidity thing.

      #154272 Quote
      georgegeorge
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      MNGophers29 wrote:

      Most wood/laminate flooring needs 35-55% humidity to maintain.

      My house was built in 1958. The original oak floors are still here. There was no humidifier in it until I added one after adding a floor. The winter humidity never got above 10-15% except for a brief excursion when someone took a long hot shower or my Mom spent a day making spaghetti sauce. The floors are still fine.

      #154273 Quote
      NYC Gopher fanNYC Gopher fan
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      My nest claims inside humidity is at 32%. I have all original wood floors so now I’m a little worried. I don’t want to not run the fan given the moisture but I don’t want to damage the floors

      #154274 Quote
      fightclub30fightclub30
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      I wouldn’t run a humidifier in a newer house (provided it was built properly).

      The little bit of residential work I dabble in, we do Rigid out-sulation, taped seams, spray foam, etc. no humidifier needed.

      I run an HRV 20-minutes every hour. Some days I will run it at constant low speed. This morning when I woke up, it was 32% in my house. It takes a lot to get it down into the 20%s. When outside air temps are in the negative teens or less for more than a day, we might drop to 26%-28%. We replaced half our windows 2 years ago with brand new Marvin windows. They still have condensation of the edge of the glass. Our older windows have frost and ice, a good 2″ up the glass and covering some of the sash.

      It is all about dewpoint. If the glass is below the dewpoint in your house, they will show condensation. If the temp of the glass drops low enough, it could be frost/ice. My father’s 1950s house needs a humidifier, I had constant nosebleeds in the winter growing up, everything was static-y… No frost or ice on his old windows.

      In Canada, they have even gone to triple pane glazing on some of their commercial and residential projects. We have done that on one project, and it was in Northern Minnesota. It just isn’t common here yet.

      Get some outside fresh air coming in, either an HRV, running a bathroom or kitchen exhaust fan for awhile, etc. I would recommend keeping your furnace fan running (provided you have a variable speed motor) to keep air moving as well. Ceiling fans help to move the warm air as well, box fans can really only push air towards a few windows at once…

      When it drops do double digits below zero, you’re likely to get condensation/frost unless your humidity is very low, or you have some ultra high performance glazing.

      67 indoor temp with 40% RH gives a dew point of 42 degrees. Meaning anything less than 42 degrees will likely have condensation on it.

      I keep my house at 64 at night, and with our 32% RH, dew point is 33 degrees. When it is -10 degrees outside, its a good chance my glass is less than 33 degrees. If we could drop our RH to 20%, Dew point drops to 22 degrees. However, I cannot get our RH below 26%, that’s the lowest I have ever seen it running the HRV constant with frigid outdoor air.

      #154275 Quote
      JWGJWG
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      I stopped running our air exchanger in our (2017 built) home. I should probably turn it back on. Issue I have is that when it draws the super cold air in, it condenses as soon as it enters the house and the fiberglass insulation around the intake pipe gets saturated with water and starts to drip.

      We already had it replaced once (under warranty), but when it’s so cold out the air just immediately warms up once it’s in the house and condenses. Not sure what else to do about it.

      #154276 Quote
      Don Adam's Wheel of JusticeDon Adam’s Wheel of Justice
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      GG06, doesn’t your new house have an air exchanger? The air exchanger is installed in new homes specifically for this reason. If you do have one, check for an adjustment knob. The required humidity level in your home changes as it gets colder outside.

      #154277 Quote
      MNGophers29MNGophers29
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      george wrote:


      MNGophers29 wrote:

      Most wood/laminate flooring needs 35-55% humidity to maintain.

      My house was built in 1958. The original oak floors are still here. There was no humidifier in it until I added one after adding a floor. The winter humidity never got above 10-15% except for a brief excursion when someone took a long hot shower or my Mom spent a day making spaghetti sauce. The floors are still fine.


      I should have specified floating floors. Manufacturers require that range.

      #154278 Quote
      davescharfdavescharf
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      Has anyone here worked with some type of interior designer for a remodel? We’re about to begin remodeling our basement (finally) and we have some ideas of what we want but no clue how to actually implement it. How do they generally charge for their services and will most of them work directly with the contractor that we’ve hired to do all the work?

      We talked to our contractor who’s going to do the work and he doesn’t care what we pick out because to him the work is all the same. I just don’t really know how the dynamics of this work.

      #154279 Quote
      BladepullerBladepuller
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      We have.

      Her web site is : Balsam Knoll Consulting. The cabin project is ours.

      #154280 Quote
      JWGJWG
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      We’re thinking about finishing our basement. Anyone have recommendations on someone to use that draws up the plans and everything?

      #154281 Quote
      BladepullerBladepuller
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      Since a basement usually means not structural changes I’ve seen people do them them selves on graph paper.

      A draftsman would be going the deluxe route.

      #154282 Quote
      KarlssonKarlsson
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        Pro tip: Don’t put studs two inches away from the cap that needs to be removed to clear out your main line. I’m blown away at how often I see this.

        #154283 Quote
        JWGJWG
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        Bladepuller wrote:


        Since a basement usually means not structural changes I’ve seen people do them them selves on graph paper.

        A draftsman would be going the deluxe route.

        I did that the last two basements. I want to be really lazy on this one and use a contractor.

        #154284 Quote
        BladepullerBladepuller
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        A real contractor should be able to draw up something

        #154285 Quote
        Kelly RedKelly Red
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          A designer is often worth the money because they can help prevent mistakes or just offer suggestions of better use of space. A simple basement just being finished off is one thing. A basement where you want an extra bed/bathroom plus family space often needs professional help.

          We used Shelly Santine, a local architect, for a major bathroom remodel. She offered ideas for creative space we never would have thought of on our own.

          651-490-5454

          She did the blueprints and our contractor did the work.

          #154286 Quote
          streakygopherstreakygopher
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          gopherguy06 wrote:


          In our new house, we are noticing there is excessive condensation around the windows, especially given the colder temps now. Wondering what we can do as it looks like a couple spots have some mold damage on the edge of the wood. I briefly read it may have to do with humidity but not sure. They said to adjust that from the basement but anyone have any ideas or thoughts?

          Good new windows are gas filled and help reduce condensation. Our house is 25 years old. The windows are still very good, but over the years the gas leaks out of the double pane glass. We get condensation around the edge of some windows, but when it’s really cold we just put a fan on the windows and it keeps the condensation from forming. Air to air exchangers help a lot, and I believe they have been code for some time now.

          On a side note, it really helps to give the sashes/sills a light sand and apply varnish in the fall.

          #154287 Quote
          BertogliatBertogliat
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          streakygopher wrote:


          gopherguy06 wrote:


          In our new house, we are noticing there is excessive condensation around the windows, especially given the colder temps now. Wondering what we can do as it looks like a couple spots have some mold damage on the edge of the wood. I briefly read it may have to do with humidity but not sure. They said to adjust that from the basement but anyone have any ideas or thoughts?

          Good new windows are gas filled and help reduce condensation. Our house is 25 years old. The windows are still very good, but over the years the gas leaks out of the double pane glass. We get condensation around the edge of some windows, but when it’s really cold we just put a fan on the windows and it keeps the condensation from forming. Air to air exchangers help a lot, and I believe they have been code for some time now.

          On a side note, it really helps to give the sashes/sills a light sand and apply varnish in the fall.

          We had brand new high-quality Pella windows installed in our old house and they had frost the first winter.

          The house was built in the 60s and didn’t have a heat exchanger.

          #154288 Quote
          GreyeagleGreyeagle
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          Bladepuller wrote:


          We have.

          Her web site is : Balsam Knoll Consulting. The cabin project is ours.

          Wow, that looks awesome! Congratulations on the updated place!

          I may need to pick your brain at some point. The boss and I are strongly considering tying to do a teardown/rebuild in the next few years to YE’s cabin ;) similar to what you did. From the pictures I saw on your daughter’s company FB page I really like what I can see of your floorpan as well as the colors, design, etc. Very similar to the look we envision.

          If she’s wondering who the goofball is who recently liked/followed her FB page you now know who. :D

          #154289 Quote
          fightclub30fightclub30
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          Kelly Red wrote:


          A designer is often worth the money because they can help prevent mistakes or just offer suggestions of better use of space. A simple basement just being finished off is one thing. A basement where you want an extra bed/bathroom plus family space often needs professional help.

          We used Shelly Santine, a local architect, for a major bathroom remodel. She offered ideas for creative space we never would have thought of on our own.

          651-490-5454

          She did the blueprints and our contractor did the work.

          Thank you for hiring an Architect. As one myself, I would obviously vouch for you to use one. Going with a builder or contractor, they tend to waste a lot of space, even on small projects. Hiring an architect, while it adds expense, will often result in a smaller, more efficient design that makes better use of the space and likely fits your needs better than a generic box that many builders use. As you stated, creative uses of space.

          I also recommended an architect to observe construction on your behalf. It amazes me the corners that contractors and subcontractors cut that do not get caught by building inspectors (who oftentimes do not know what they are inspecting…). They work on your behalf, rather than the contractor who works on his/her own behalf.

          You don’t need to go David Salmela on it https://www.salmelaarchitect.com/” class=”bbcode_url”>https://www.salmelaarchitect.com/ but you certainly could.

          #154290 Quote
          BladepullerBladepuller
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          I have spent my entire adult life in construction

          Carpenter by trade but ran many something point something million dollar jobs. Did jobs from the hard bid plan and spec end to open book cost plus. I also have experiance with the construction management model where the owner acts as the GC doing site supervision, prime contract execution (actually doing contractual labor of the P&S) andbeing the site supt. looking out for the owners interest.

          Architects skills and abilities are like any other craft, all across the spectrum. We were told in on prejob (We had won the job being the low GC) that, ” There will be no need for change orders on this job.” I thought moonrider (He had bid it as our PM) was going to die laughing when I remarked, “I guess that means no punch list too.”

          I had written over 1000 RFI when the A&E, in private, asked if we could only write one a day per AIA division and use a letter for questions in the same division but in a different area. The cost of having incomplete plans ( owner was a gov. body that stopped & started rhe plans trough 3 budget cycles) was north of 25% of the base bid.

          I hired an architect for our job. He knew going in he would get zero const admin work. Thus we were a low priority client once we got the 1st set of drawings. He took our vision, digitalized it (that allowed the building pad to be as close as possible to set backs) and tramamitted it to mu surveyor. We did our own interior design and speced exterior finish to comply with budget.

          Bottom line for me is the GC, on any project, needs to be strong and honest. No A/E can over come bad workmanship. My biggest issue with architects is that they are generally spending others $$$.

          The comment on space use is interesting. Ours usually is designing places north of Brainerd, not on the south end of Mille Lacs. Look at their portfolio and know what you want.

          #154291 Quote
          BladepullerBladepuller
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          Greyeagle wrote:


          Bladepuller wrote:


          We have.

          Her web site is : Balsam Knoll Consulting. The cabin project is ours.

          Wow, that looks awesome! Congratulations on the updated place!

          I may need to pick your brain at some point. The boss and I are strongly considering tying to do a teardown/rebuild in the next few years to YE’s cabin ;) similar to what you did. From the pictures I saw on your daughter’s company FB page I really like what I can see of your floorpan as well as the colors, design, etc. Very similar to the look we envision.

          If she’s wondering who the goofball is who recently liked/followed her FB page you now know who. :D


          Thanks SS.

          The place has been all we hoped. We don’t live there full time. It was meant as a family place to gather and we had a great Xmas there with both girls families. 8 adults and a 8 yr old makes a full house.

          I have not gone to a single game this year but still am a STH. Maybe we meet up before one of the last games?

          Going to try to make the last games.

          #154292 Quote
          Kelly RedKelly Red
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            GD mouse is upstairs in our house! Mostly my OFFICE! We have an agreement, they stay in the basement and we provide yummy bait. This one is violating the world order by boldly running along the baseboard in my office and then disappearing down the radiator hole, only to pop up again and again. I’m not afraid of them it’s just startling. He needs to eat his DeCon like a good little mouse and drift away to dreamland. :censored:

            #154293 Quote
            D2DD2D
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            Kelly Red wrote:


            GD mouse is upstairs in our house! Mostly my OFFICE! We have an agreement, they stay in the basement and we provide yummy bait. This one is violating the world order by boldly running along the baseboard in my office and then disappearing down the radiator hole, only to pop up again and again. I’m not afraid of them it’s just startling. He needs to eat his DeCon like a good little mouse and drift away to dreamland. :censored:


            So irritating! Have you tried the old fashioned mousetraps with peanut butter? When we’ve occasionally had one those little traps get ’em every time!

            #154294 Quote
            Kelly RedKelly Red
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              D2D wrote:


              Kelly Red wrote:


              GD mouse is upstairs in our house! Mostly my OFFICE! We have an agreement, they stay in the basement and we provide yummy bait. This one is violating the world order by boldly running along the baseboard in my office and then disappearing down the radiator hole, only to pop up again and again. I’m not afraid of them it’s just startling. He needs to eat his DeCon like a good little mouse and drift away to dreamland. :censored:


              So irritating! Have you tried the old fashioned mousetraps with peanut butter? When we’ve occasionally had one those little traps get ’em every time!

              Update: He’s been taken care of (said in New Jersey accent while eating red sauce). I do have a few old fashioned traps. Like I said, he violated the house rules so the nuclear option was used. 5 minutes after it was down SNAP.

              #154295 Quote
              5 O.T.5 O.T.
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                Kelly Red wrote:


                D2D wrote:


                Kelly Red wrote:


                GD mouse is upstairs in our house! Mostly my OFFICE! We have an agreement, they stay in the basement and we provide yummy bait. This one is violating the world order by boldly running along the baseboard in my office and then disappearing down the radiator hole, only to pop up again and again. I’m not afraid of them it’s just startling. He needs to eat his DeCon like a good little mouse and drift away to dreamland. :censored:


                So irritating! Have you tried the old fashioned mousetraps with peanut butter? When we’ve occasionally had one those little traps get ’em every time!

                Update: He’s been taken care of (said in New Jersey accent while eating red sauce). I do have a few old fashioned traps. Like I said, he violated the house rules so the nuclear option was used. 5 minutes after it was down SNAP.

                Might as well reset. There’s probably more than one. :x

                This bad boy works great but it’s a little pricey.

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6s2PcbFu0nw

                #154296 Quote
                Kelly RedKelly Red
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                  Good lord, that’s a meat packing stun gun for mice! Personally I prefer DeCon for the few we have, but that certainly looks effective.

                  #154297 Quote
                  BladepullerBladepuller
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                  Tomcat pellets work better tham De Con in my experiance and I also have the Tomcat throwable blocks.

                  No domestic critters around to worry about eating a dead rodent or getting into the poison.

                  #154298 Quote
                  CowgirlCowgirl
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                  The end of that video – you may no longer have a mouse problem, but here, have some raccoons instead. 😆

                  #154299 Quote
                  OrionOrion
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                  Cowgirl wrote:


                  The end of that video – you may no longer have a mouse problem, but here, have some raccoons instead. 😆

                  Coming next year, the mega size perfect for getting rid of raccoons!

                  #154300 Quote
                  KarlssonKarlsson
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                    Orion wrote:


                    Cowgirl wrote:


                    The end of that video – you may no longer have a mouse problem, but here, have some raccoons instead. 😆

                    Coming next year, the mega size perfect for getting rid of raccoons!

                    Just skip all of the steps and get one big enough for a black bear.

                    #154301 Quote
                    00xtremeninja00xtremeninja
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                      So, my DirecTV was out of whack, I go downstairs and reboot the system. Mind you, my basement door is usually non operational because of baby gate. So I decide, well while the kids are sleeping I can refill the salt on my softener. Then I get the brilliant idea, EVERYONE IS SLEEPING, NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO FLUSH THE WATER HEATER!

                      its 1:20 am, i just wanna go to sleep but the damn thing is still draining. Who knew 40 gallons would take so long. Yes i purged pressure to allow air into it to help push the water down faster. What’s pissing me off is i have seen 0 sediment come out, which is refreshing to know the tank is clean……but makes this maintenance process a little less satisfying.

                      #154302 Quote
                      ex_goldyex_goldy
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                      Wow Goextreme, you are a considerate guy. I just announce no hot water in 30 minutes for a couple hours. For faster water heater draining I unscrew the faucet connector, (*release pressure first*). The fauce is restrictive and sediment gets caught in it. Remove any water heater jacket and make a channel for water to spill into floor drain, screw on an open pipe with hose on it to floor drain to minimize spills. Go to Menards and find a fitting that matches a faucet. I replace the faucet on the water heater because the are cheap and usually leak. It’s still messy but It comes out fast. Wet vac is also a good option to contain the spills. sediment flows out easier and I’m done quicker.. I got a lot of sediment out this way. You can do a flush by allowing water in, open up the water inlet after it’s drained to get out any sediment still inside.

                      I don’t do this often enough, usually I have lots of sediment. I’ve gotten good at replacing water heaters, one new one in each of my houses.

                      Mice are the worst, seems like they remember old food sources and keep coming back way after it’s gone. Mine are only in garage (crossed fingers).

                      #154303 Quote
                      gopherguy06gopherguy06
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                        Is flushing a water heater a thing you should be doing regularly?

                        #154304 Quote
                        Don Adam's Wheel of JusticeDon Adam’s Wheel of Justice
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                        gopherguy06 wrote:


                        Is flushing a water heater a thing you should be doing regularly?


                        Good question. My water heater is 22 years old and has never been flushed in the 16 years we’ve owned the house. I’ve been pondering the idea of replacing it since it’s probably not very efficient anymore and it takes forever for hot water to reach the far end of the house.

                        #154305 Quote
                        ex_goldyex_goldy
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                        If you have hard water it’s a necessity. I have tons of these little mineral granules in the bottom that take up space, cover the bottom and lower heating efficiency. Also it ruins the tank.

                        #154306 Quote
                        MNGophers29MNGophers29
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                        gopherguy06 wrote:


                        Is flushing a water heater a thing you should be doing regularly?


                        Technically it should be done once a year. Even if you have soft water, minerals and scale can build up inside of the tank and your volume will reduce over time and cause problems. You also keep your drain valve clear in the event you need to replace it and need to drain the hot water so you can move the old one out.

                        1. Ensure you turn the power off, the heating elements will blow if they are run dry.

                        2. Be careful! That water is hot as hell and you can burn yourself. In my first house, the valve was plugged so I had to unscrew each element until the water came out and I had to try and catch in in a bucket….it was a mess, I got hot water all over and the scale was nuts.

                        All of this being said, I have never drained a water heater in my house, but I drain my one at the lake every fall.

                        #154307 Quote
                        GopherPeteGopherPete
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                          Don Adams Wheel of Justice wrote:


                          gopherguy06 wrote:


                          Is flushing a water heater a thing you should be doing regularly?


                          Good question. My water heater is 22 years old and has never been flushed in the 16 years we’ve owned the house. I’ve been pondering the idea of replacing it since it’s probably not very efficient anymore and it takes forever for hot water to reach the far end of the house.

                          Totally understandable to want to replace for the reasons you note above, but I’d suggest to wait until it leaks if you are comfortable with that idea (assuming there is sufficient drainage available in event of a leak). I am a water heater rep and in my experience, you may be able to get another 10 years potentially out of that heater as it appears your water quality must be fairly good. However, should you replace with a new heater, be prepared to generally get about 6 years max out of it as that seems to be the norm now.

                          #154308 Quote
                          BertogliatBertogliat
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                          Do any of you replace your water heater anodes?

                          #154309 Quote
                          00xtremeninja00xtremeninja
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                            Lol, I scared the shit out of my wife last night as I was trying as gently as possible to get water back to all of our fixtures.

                            #154310 Quote
                            Don Adam's Wheel of JusticeDon Adam’s Wheel of Justice
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                            GopherPete wrote:


                            Don Adams Wheel of Justice wrote:


                            gopherguy06 wrote:


                            Is flushing a water heater a thing you should be doing regularly?


                            Good question. My water heater is 22 years old and has never been flushed in the 16 years we’ve owned the house. I’ve been pondering the idea of replacing it since it’s probably not very efficient anymore and it takes forever for hot water to reach the far end of the house.

                            Totally understandable to want to replace for the reasons you note above, but I’d suggest to wait until it leaks if you are comfortable with that idea (assuming there is sufficient drainage available in event of a leak). I am a water heater rep and in my experience, you may be able to get another 10 years potentially out of that heater as it appears your water quality must be fairly good. However, should you replace with a new heater, be prepared to generally get about 6 years max out of it as that seems to be the norm now.


                            Hey, many thanks for the response! My water heater sits about 2 feet from the drain on concrete so a leak wouldn’t hurt anything. I’ll leave well enough alone.

                            #154311 Quote
                            GopherPeteGopherPete
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                              Bertogliat wrote:


                              Do any of you replace your water heater anodes?

                              How old is your heater, and what is your water quality like? Any foul smells or sludge at fixtures?

                              #154312 Quote
                              BertogliatBertogliat
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                              I think it about 8-9 years old. And I do occasionally smell, for lack of better term, a faint fart smell when I turn on water on the top floor..

                              #154313 Quote
                              GopherPeteGopherPete
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                                Bertogliat wrote:


                                I think it about 8-9 years old. And I do occasionally smell, for lack of better term, a faint fart smell when I turn on water on the top floor..

                                That is due to the sulfur in the water reacting with magnesium in the anode rod to create the rotten egg smell. Easy solution is to replace the anode rod with a zinc rod or a new product linked below:

                                https://www.supplyhouse.com/AO-Smith-100305721-Product-Preservers-Powered-Anode-Rod-System

                                I know this works with AOSmith brand heaters, not sure of other brands and I think 50 gallon is max capacity these will work with.

                                #154314 Quote
                                Don Adam's Wheel of JusticeDon Adam’s Wheel of Justice
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                                GopherPete, is there any way to get hot water to the farthest faucets of my house any faster?

                                #154315 Quote
                                GopherPeteGopherPete
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                                  Do you have a pump installed?

                                  #154316 Quote
                                  Don Adam's Wheel of JusticeDon Adam’s Wheel of Justice
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                                  No pump

                                  #154317 Quote
                                  GopherPeteGopherPete
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                                    Pump would probably be the best option short of installing a point of use unit under the sink or something like that.

                                    #154318 Quote
                                    davescharfdavescharf
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                                    Apparently no one wants to come do a Radon test in my house. First company never showed up last week and didn’t call me back until about 4 hours after I tried to figure out where they were. I called a different one who’s supposed to be here at 3:00 and no answer from them either.

                                    This is why I really hate dealing with contractors.

                                    #154319 Quote
                                    MNGophers29MNGophers29
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                                    Bertogliat wrote:


                                    Do any of you replace your water heater anodes?


                                    I have done it a few times, generally I do that before replacing the whole heater in the event it is a cheap fix.

                                    #154320 Quote
                                    Kelly RedKelly Red
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                                      davescharf wrote:


                                      Apparently no one wants to come do a Radon test in my house. First company never showed up last week and didn’t call me back until about 4 hours after I tried to figure out where they were. I called a different one who’s supposed to be here at 3:00 and no answer from them either.

                                      This is why I really hate dealing with contractors.

                                      We did our own test with a kit provided by our neighborhood, but there are several at Home Depot/Menards. Granted they are not as accurate, but at less then $20 why don’t you try that first. IF the home test comes back with bad or borderline numbers, they recommend you test it again, still less then $20. THEN and only then would I pay several hundred $$.

                                      #154321 Quote
                                      davescharfdavescharf
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                                      Kelly Red wrote:


                                      davescharf wrote:


                                      Apparently no one wants to come do a Radon test in my house. First company never showed up last week and didn’t call me back until about 4 hours after I tried to figure out where they were. I called a different one who’s supposed to be here at 3:00 and no answer from them either.

                                      This is why I really hate dealing with contractors.

                                      We did our own test with a kit provided by our neighborhood, but there are several at Home Depot/Menards. Granted they are not as accurate, but at less then $20 why don’t you try that first. IF the home test comes back with bad or borderline numbers, they recommend you test it again, still less then $20. THEN and only then would I pay several hundred $$.

                                      We did and this is our ‘second opinion’. The guy did show up about 30 minutes late on Friday. He was supposed to be back at 5 tonight to get his equipment and never came, so I guess I’ll have ot call them tomorrow and see when I can be home for them to pick it up

                                      #154322 Quote
                                      D2DD2D
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                                      davescharf wrote:


                                      We did and this is our ‘second opinion’. The guy did show up about 30 minutes late on Friday. He was supposed to be back at 5 tonight to get his equipment and never came, so I guess I’ll have to call them tomorrow and see when I can be home for them to pick it up.


                                      Shows up late…fails to come and get his equipment…which makes me wonder: Can you trust his results?

                                      #154323 Quote
                                      davescharfdavescharf
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                                      D2D wrote:


                                      davescharf wrote:


                                      We did and this is our ‘second opinion’. The guy did show up about 30 minutes late on Friday. He was supposed to be back at 5 tonight to get his equipment and never came, so I guess I’ll have to call them tomorrow and see when I can be home for them to pick it up.


                                      Shows up late…fails to come and get his equipment…which makes me wonder: Can you trust his results?

                                      That thought has crossed my mind

                                      #154324 Quote
                                      GoldenRubeGoldenRube
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                                      gopherguy06 wrote:


                                      In our new house, we are noticing there is excessive condensation around the windows, especially given the colder temps now. Wondering what we can do as it looks like a couple spots have some mold damage on the edge of the wood. I briefly read it may have to do with humidity but not sure. They said to adjust that from the basement but anyone have any ideas or thoughts?

                                      Do you have an air exchanger and is it on?

                                      #154325 Quote
                                      OrionOrion
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                                      Amazon sells radon detectors for $150-$200 that function much like a CO detector. You leave it plugged in all the time and it will monitor both short term and long term trends and alarm if the long term average is over a certain threshold. They are not as accurate as the equipment used by inspectors, but the point is they are a longer duration test. Radon levels can fluctuate widely over time. My basement goes from short term around 2 pci/L and will occasionally jump over 4. From research I’ve done it isn’t uncommon for the levels to fluctuate which is why the experts recommend the long term carbon tests regardless of short term tests.

                                      #154326 Quote
                                      00xtremeninja00xtremeninja
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                                        davescharf wrote:


                                        D2D wrote:


                                        davescharf wrote:


                                        We did and this is our ‘second opinion’. The guy did show up about 30 minutes late on Friday. He was supposed to be back at 5 tonight to get his equipment and never came, so I guess I’ll have to call them tomorrow and see when I can be home for them to pick it up.


                                        Shows up late…fails to come and get his equipment…which makes me wonder: Can you trust his results?

                                        That thought has crossed my mind

                                        I would have said screw it and left the stuff in a pile outside the garage or by the street. Call the company and say this is where the stuff is located and if the guy or the company cares, thats where they can pick it up. you shouldn’t have to inconvenience yourself because the dude is lazy and left his stuff. My hunch is that it is company issued equipment because if he had to pay for his own stuff, he would have been back to get it.

                                        #154327 Quote
                                        davescharfdavescharf
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                                        00xtremeninja wrote:


                                        davescharf wrote:


                                        D2D wrote:


                                        davescharf wrote:


                                        We did and this is our ‘second opinion’. The guy did show up about 30 minutes late on Friday. He was supposed to be back at 5 tonight to get his equipment and never came, so I guess I’ll have to call them tomorrow and see when I can be home for them to pick it up.


                                        Shows up late…fails to come and get his equipment…which makes me wonder: Can you trust his results?

                                        That thought has crossed my mind

                                        I would have said screw it and left the stuff in a pile outside the garage or by the street. Call the company and say this is where the stuff is located and if the guy or the company cares, thats where they can pick it up. you shouldn’t have to inconvenience yourself because the dude is lazy and left his stuff. My hunch is that it is company issued equipment because if he had to pay for his own stuff, he would have been back to get it.

                                        That had crossed my mind as well. I called and they picked it up right away. They said they had come about an hour before they told me they were coming and no one was home. This is true because I was on my way home from work thinking they were coming an hour later

                                        #154328 Quote
                                        MATTMATT
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                                        We just moved and have had a number of deliveries and appointments at our house etc. We have had numerous times where we were given a window, then given a smaller window the night before. My wife and I plan for who can cover what times. Then they call an hour to two early and say “hey, we are at your house.” Haha, ok, have fun waiting there for an hour until I get home. They don’t care, they’re mostly laborers and are happy to nap in their truck for an hour.

                                        We have had most within the window.

                                        On the late side of the spectrum, we only had that once. I got a peloton for my wife for Christmas ( 😂 semi kidding, she asked for it). The smaller window was 3:30-6:30 and they showed up after 9:30!

                                        #154329 Quote
                                        gopherguy06gopherguy06
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                                          Anyone have a recommendation for a painter or carpet install? Small 1 bedroom and probably 200 sq ft bedroom.

                                          #154330 Quote
                                          Don Adam's Wheel of JusticeDon Adam’s Wheel of Justice
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                                          gopherguy06 wrote:


                                          Anyone have a recommendation for a painter or carpet install? Small 1 bedroom and probably 200 sq ft bedroom.


                                          Redman’s Flooring and Design in Anoka. Ask for Bobbi, she’ll take care of you.

                                          #154331 Quote
                                          gopherguy06gopherguy06
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                                            Great thanks! I’ll call tomorrow. Do people recommend doing painting before flooring or the other way? The painter said do that first then floor since those can get drips and damage. But the flooring place I spoke with said paint takes 2-3 days to fully dry and replacing carpet and floor can get dust and particles into the paint

                                            #154332 Quote
                                            MNGophers29MNGophers29
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                                            gopherguy06 wrote:


                                            Great thanks! I’ll call tomorrow. Do people recommend doing painting before flooring or the other way? The painter said do that first then floor since those can get drips and damage. But the flooring place I spoke with said paint takes 2-3 days to fully dry and replacing carpet and floor can get dust and particles into the paint


                                            It takes paint about 2 weeks to fully cure where it is it’s strongest. That being said, paint beforehand and you can touch up when the flooring is done. You will get some scratches and possibly gouges (depending on your layout and carpet style) but it’s easier to touch up than completely paint.

                                            #154333 Quote
                                            davescharfdavescharf
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                                            MNGophers29 wrote:


                                            gopherguy06 wrote:


                                            Great thanks! I’ll call tomorrow. Do people recommend doing painting before flooring or the other way? The painter said do that first then floor since those can get drips and damage. But the flooring place I spoke with said paint takes 2-3 days to fully dry and replacing carpet and floor can get dust and particles into the paint


                                            It takes paint about 2 weeks to fully cure where it is it’s strongest. That being said, paint beforehand and you can touch up when the flooring is done. You will get some scratches and possibly gouges (depending on your layout and carpet style) but it’s easier to touch up than completely paint.

                                            We will definitely paint before flooring and molding go in our basement. I expect quite a bit of touch up because of all the dust but I don’t want paint on any of it

                                            #154335 Quote
                                            gopherguy06gopherguy06
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                                              Anyone know someone who could look at and potentially replace a water heater? Or have a recommendation on who to call?

                                              #154334 Quote
                                              D2DD2D
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                                              gopherguy06 wrote:


                                              Anyone know someone who could look at and potentially replace a water heater? Or have a recommendation on who to call?


                                              I got our last one, almost 8 years ago now, from Home Depot. They can arrange for installation.

                                              #154336 Quote
                                              Steve MNSteve MN
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                                              D2D wrote:


                                              gopherguy06 wrote:


                                              Anyone know someone who could look at and potentially replace a water heater? Or have a recommendation on who to call?


                                              I got our last one, almost 8 years ago now, from Home Depot. They can arrange for installation.

                                              Same here. Worked nicely, even calling in the day before thanksgiving and getting it installed the day after. They try to avoid scheduling installs for holiday weekends, but when I explained that my old one was leaking and not usable, they put me right on the calendar.

                                              #154338 Quote
                                              Don Adam's Wheel of JusticeDon Adam’s Wheel of Justice
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                                              gopherguy06 wrote:


                                              Anyone know someone who could look at and potentially replace a water heater? Or have a recommendation on who to call?


                                              I’ve used Superior Heating and Air in Anoka several times and they do great work.

                                              #154337 Quote
                                              davescharfdavescharf
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                                              Steve MN wrote:


                                              D2D wrote:


                                              gopherguy06 wrote:


                                              Anyone know someone who could look at and potentially replace a water heater? Or have a recommendation on who to call?


                                              I got our last one, almost 8 years ago now, from Home Depot. They can arrange for installation.

                                              Same here. Worked nicely, even calling in the day before thanksgiving and getting it installed the day after. They try to avoid scheduling installs for holiday weekends, but when I explained that my old one was leaking and not usable, they put me right on the calendar.

                                              Did ours at HD as well

                                              #154339 Quote
                                              BladepullerBladepuller
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                                              Tradesman Mech. out of Isanti if in the north metro.

                                              I stopped by the WPoS garage / cabinet shop a month or so ago. His boiler for the infloor heat would not ignite and I was impressed that Tradesman had a tech there that soon even though Mark had no previous relationship with them.

                                              #154340 Quote
                                              gopherguy06gopherguy06
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                                                Of course when one thing breaks everything does. Fridge stopped working and lights are still on but won’t keep cool. The electrical on the front where the dispenser is isn’t on and that’s where you could control the temp. We just got painting done and they moved the fridge so wondering if something is loose or need a new one. Any ideas? Or who to call to repair?

                                                #154341 Quote
                                                D2DD2D
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                                                Wish this klutz could help you… All I know is that we’re on an incredibly lucky streak of things in our house not only breaking but outliving their expected life expectantcies…kitchen appliances, furnace, air conditioner, water softener, computers, TV’s. etc etc…

                                                Of course as soon as I finish typing this things will start to go, one after another in a short time frame, requiring replacement, one after another…. :roll:

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